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Hakuna Matata

First ascent: Hannes Pfeifhofer, Lisi Steurer 06/2017
By: Lisi Steurer
Area: Dolomites, Group: Spalti di Col Becchei, Peak: Taè, Country: Italy

The climb was established over seven days ground-up, using a mix of normal pegs, bolts and trad gear. Hakuna Matata follows a "logical" line up the central part of Tae’s South Face, and includes some traverses where the rock was worn completely smooth by the glacial action.

The belays are comfortable on ledges and the climbing, extremely technical, breaches difficulties up to 8a with obligatory 7b. The insitu gear can be integrated with friends. In addition to the beautiful first pitch, it’s worth underlining the last one with its Verdonesque final slab

GETTING THERE

From Cortina drive towards Dobbiaco along the SS51.After the small village Fiames turn left off the main road (signposted Val di Fanes - Trevenanzes) at the obvious hairpin bend. Park the car at the entrance to the park.

ACCESS

From the carpark (1450m) follow path #10 (orographic right) to Ponte Outo, continue on to reach a small path that branches off right and leads over a bridge (1758m). Follow this path, past cairns steeply uphill to a scree gully. Follow the dry riverbed (cairns) and then keep right below the South Face of Taè, heading towards the obvious tree and then on to the start of the climb (2000m). The route starts up a corner. 2.5 hours on foot, E-Bike circa 1 hour

DESCENT

Descend via the top traverse (II). From the 8th belay you can abseil directly down the abseil piste (see topo). traverse across the first ledge system (I) and continue abseiling down the route.

GEAR

2x 60m ropes, 13 quickdraws, 1 set Friends from C3 to#4, E-Bike, Haul Line

NOTES

Thanks to Arcteryx, Austrialpin, Sport Holzer Innichen, Alpinschule Sexten Dreizinnen, Osttirol Werbung

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Tabacco, 1:25.000, Cortina d`Ampezzo e Dolomiti Ampezzane

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7b

FACE

South

LENGTH

400 m

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LINK

www.lisisteurer.at

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