By: Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Croda da Lago, Peak: Lastoni di Formin, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto
Bolted climb put up by Bruno Sartorelli and Danilo Serafini up the second bastion of Mondeval, the beautiful pillar that together with the others forms the sunny south Face of Lastoni di Formin.
Passo Giau (2233 m) is reached easily from Cortina d’Ampezzo, ideal for those coming from the south and the A27 motorway. Otherwise, reach the pass from the other side via Caprile and the Agordino valley.
Park circa 200 before reaching Passo Giau (coming from Cortina) in the obvious lay-by on the left. Follow path # 436 that leads to Forcella Giau (45 minutes).
From the col continue to the base of the face and traverse below it. Continue past the start of Re Artù and I love my dogs and follow the tracks to beneath the second bastion.
The start of the route (bolt visible) is located at the base of a long black streak (15 minutes from Forcella Giau).
P1: 6b+ 30m 5 bolts
P2: 6a 30m 5 bolts (one 6c+ section)
P3: 6b+ 30m 6 bolts
P4: 7a+/7b 35m 9 bolts
P5: 6c+ 35m 7 bolts
P6: III 15m
1 – walk along the path NW to reach the obvious notch on the right (5 minutes). The first of three anchors is located at the start of the gully; continue down via three abseils and a short scramble to return to the base of the route. This is the descent used by those who have climbed the routes put up by Mario Dibona on Monte Formin. One 55m rope suffices for the abseil. In case of rain or other parties watch out for loose rock.
2 – alternatively descend on foot; reach the Forcella Rossa del Formin path then continue down (first # 435 then # 436) to return to Forcella Giau and Passo Giau (2 hours circa).
3 – last option, abseil down the route. A 70m rope is needed. This is best avoided though if there are other climbers on the route.
10 quickdraws, full alpine rack
Croda da Lago and Fastoni di Formin are particularly prone to thunderstorms and lightening strikes. In unstable weather conditions I recommend you choose not to climb this route.
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