Fun climb in a great alpine setting close to the Grand Capucin.
Reach Courmayeur. Take the Punta Helbronner cable car and reach Col Flambeaux.
From Col Flambeaux descend into the basin and head to the right-hand side of the Grand Capucin.
Climb the Couloir de Capucines for circa 150m diagonally left to the start of the corner of the obvious gully which is defended by a small rock overhang. 35/40° then 50°
P1: 60° gully with some sections on rock (4c and M5) for circa 60m.
P2: Climb a delicate short M5 mixed section to an easy 50° slope which leads to the belay. 60m.
P3: Ascend the slope above direct, 70°.
P5: Great 60m pitch to an comfortable belay on the left-hand side of the gully.
P6: Climb the gully direct. This leads slightly left to the Breche de Capucines 60/65°.
P7: A short 85° section marks the end of the difficulties. Climb a further 50m up delicate mixed terrain to reach the Breche.
Abseil down the route to the second pitch belay. From here take the obvious traverse to the Breche du Carabinier, from where you can also descend on foot. Many in-situ anchors.
Some ice screws including some short ones. Conditions depending a selection of small camming devices may be found useful up to Camalot #1.
Neige Glace et Mixte Tome 2
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