Very beautiful and highly rewarding icefall. Beware of the thickness of the ice. Water almost always runs within the fall. It requires a long period of intense cold to form completely.
From Milan drive to Lecco and then Colico along the SS 36, then continue along the SS 38 to Bormio. From here take the SS 301 towards Livigno and the Foscagno Pass 2291 m.The Forcola pass which connects Valle di Livigno with Valle di Poschiavo is open from May to November only.
From Livigno drive to the border at Ponte del Gallo; park after the third tunnel, close to a gravel quarry. The icefall is clearly visible above the road in a rocky gully. Climb up the steep slope to quickly reach the start of the climb (30 mins).
The icefall can be climbed in one long single pitch (60 m), by first climbing left, then in the center where the ice is more compact (extremely interesting variation, II/4+)
Descend by traversing right on foot.
Map route 3
Guidabook: Cascate. Alpi Centrali, Lombardia e Svizzera by Mario Sertori.
Map: Switzerland 1:25000 f.1258 La Stretta and f.1238 Piz Quattervals; Kompass 1:50.000 sheet n. 96 Bormio Livigno
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