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La lingua pura

First ascent: Albert Leichtfried & Paul Mair ground up 10/2009. 1st redpoint: Albert Leichtfried, 01/11/2009
By: Albert Leichtfried
Area: Apennines, Group: Sicilian Apennines, Peak: Monte Monaco, Country: Italy, Region: Sicily

La lingua pura is perhaps my finest multi-pitch route to date. The route quality is outstanding and alternates a series of tufas and compact corners to climb the impressive North Face of Monte Monaco high above San Vito lo Capo and the beautiful Mediterranean Sea.

The roof located at circa 120m is the crux and is climbed via a series of tufas and knobs to reach the lip and a hidden thank-god crimp, positioned just where it needs to be!

GETTING THERE

From San Vito lo Capo drive to the obvious Monte Monaco. Park the car at the northern entry to Camping la Pineta.

ACCESS

Walk to the North Face and the base of the route in just 15 minutes. The route starts left of an obvious grey pillar. The route name is written at the start.

ROUTE

P1: 6b, 40m, 4 bolts
P2: 6c+, 35m, 6 bolts
P3: 6b+, 25m, 6 bolts
P4: 7a, 20m, 6 bolts
P5: 7c, 15m, 5 bolts
P6: 6c, 20m, 4 bolts
P7: 6a+, 20m, 4 bolts
P8: 5b, 25m, 1 bolt

DESCENT

Walk down the south face in 45 minutes, some grade II scramble.

GEAR

Cams 0.4 - 4, a set of small nuts, 15 quickdraws, slings.

NOTES

Accommodation in Custonaci, Cornino and San Vito lo Capo.

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COMMENTS for the route "La lingua pura"

07-04-2010, Mirto e Terrone
Bel viaggio con tratti entusiasmanti e sempre facilmente proteggibili verso un fantastico tetto perfettamente orizzontale che si presta ad una bella arrampicata che lascia anche il tempo ad una rapida e consigliata occhiata verso il basso prima di godersi il meritato e meraviglioso panorama in sosta
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

PERIOD

Autumn, spring

DIFFICULTY

7c

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c

FACE

North

LENGTH

200m

LINK ZONE

Read main article

LINK

www.albertleichtfried.at/

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