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Woodstock

First ascent: Reinhold Scherer & Dieter Stöhr 09/2008 – 09/2009
By: Planetmountain
Area: North Tyrol Limestone Alps, Group: Karwendelgebirge, Peak: Große Speckkarplatte, Karwendel, Country: Austria, Region: Tyrol

Woodstock is certainly one of the most beautiful routes of this grade in the entire Karwendel. It offers very difficult and technically demanding face climbing with a vertical, open and outwards facing 70m long crux corner. The crux is comprised of the first 10m of vertical slab climbing (8a) on the second pitch, followed by a 70m corner (7c). The rock quality is five star an is the final two pitches offers dreamlike 7a face climbing. During the first ascent the final two pitches mistakenly followed the crack "Schattenspiel". First ascended by Zak/Walch, this pitches were re-equipped and after talking to the first ascentionists and offering to remove the bolts, it was decided to leave these in-situ. Two independent final pitches were established later, just to the left of this crack.

GETTING THERE

From Innsbruck drive to Hall in Tirol.

ACCESS

Two options.
A. Drive through the Halltall (4€ toll) and over Lafatscher Joch towards the Hallerangerhaus, circa 2 hours. Fit cyclists can cycle to just beneath the col. This doesn't reduce the walk-in much, but during the (very demanding) descent one saves 45 minutes.
B. Cycle from Scharnitz (4€ parking) over the Hinterautal, past the Kastenalm to the Hallerangerhaus. Most push their bikes along the steep ascent to the Kastenalm. Although this approach is longer (at least 2.5 hours), the return is simple and takes circa 45 - 60 minutes.
The Große Speckkarplatte can be seen east of the Hallerangerhaus mountain hut and is reached in circa 15 minutes.

ROUTE

P1: 5c+ (35m)
P2: 8a (40m)
P3: 7c+ (20m)
P4: 7c (20m)
P5: 6b+ (35m)
P6: 7a (35m)
P7: 7a (35m)

DESCENT

Abseil down the route or scramble up (Grade II) to the ramp on the left.

GEAR

17 quickdraws, 70m single rope for the abseil

NOTES

Thanks to David Lama, Andy Würtele and Jorg Verhoeven for their help.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

July - September

DIFFICULTY

8a+

FACE

North

LENGTH

220m

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LINK

www.kletterzentrum-tivoli.at

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