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Umbras

First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia & Rolando Larcher 06/2008. RP by the first ascentionists on 15/06/2009.
By: Rolando Larcher
Area: Sardinia, Group: Supramonte, Peak: Punta Cusidore, Height: 1000m, Country: Italy, Region: Sardinia

Very technical climbing on rock which is reminiscent of the Verdon. The route is bolted but at times there are very long run-outs.
Of the routes that I've first ascended in Sardinia, this one has true character, like Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco on Punta Giradili. This is a magic excellent trio which sets itself apart. The routes are very similar in terms of their remarkable beauty and difficulty, but extremely diverse due to the characteristics of the rock.

GETTING THERE

From Nuoro drive to Oliena, then follow the instructions in the climbing guidebooks to reach Punta Cusidore.

ACCESS

From Funtana Iscandula reach Preda ‘e Littu and then follow the path to the start of the classic route Spigolo della Punta Cusidore. From here traverse left and coast the north face to a chain. Scramble up the ramp (rope, Grade II) and reach the start (1 hour from the fountain, 500m heigh gain).

ROUTE

P1: 6c+
P2: 7b+
P3: 7a+
P4: 7c+
P5: 8a
P6: 7c

DESCENT

- First 55m abseil to 5th belay, clip quickdraws as you rap
- Second abseil in diagonal to 4th belay, clip quickdraws as you rap
- Third abseil to belay 3
- Fourth abseil exactly 60m long (beware!) to 1st belay. Alternatively abseil to belay 2
- Fifth abseil 60m to ground

GEAR

Two 60m ropes, 11 quickdraws, some kevlar threads and slings for some spikes. The route is bolted but at times there are very long run-outs.

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COMMENTS for the route "Umbras"

29-08-2011, Gianni Canale
27 agosto 2011. Il forte team giudicariese composto da Gianni Canale, Stefano Salvaterra e Aldo Mazzotti ripetono la via Umbras a Punta Cusidore in Sardegna di Rolando Largher. Abbiamo sentito l'apritore per le congratulazioni ed è probabile che si tratti della prima ripetizione. Rolando ci ha detto che un team slovacco, la scorsa estate, sembra abbia abbandonato a metà via perché era bagnata. Se così fosse noi siamo veramente fieri di aver fatto la prima ripetizione di una linea stupenda con roccia fotonica e con uno stile impeccabile... (per chi conosce Rolando non serve aggiungere altro)... Un pò ce la siamo fatta sotto....Grazie Rolando, ci siamo proprio divertiti. Un consiglio:chi ha il livello e un buon morale non può lasciarsela scappare!!!
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

8a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7b+

FACE

North

LENGTH

300m

LINK ZONE

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