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Italia '61

First ascent: Bepi De Francesch, Quinto Romanin, Emiliano Vuerich & Cesare Franceschetti 1961. First free ascent: Mauro Bubu Bole 06/2004
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Piz Ciavazes, Country: Italy

In July 2004 Mauro Bubu Bole frees one of the most eyed-up overhangs in the Dolomites, the mythical Italia ’61. The route was first climbed over 40 years ago by Bepi De Francesch, Quinto Romanin, Emiliano Vuerich and Cesare Franceschetti, on the highly popular south face of the Piz Ciavazes, Sella.

Bubu Bole climbed the route up to mid-height ledge, the Cengia dei Camosci, where almost all climbers then return to the valley floor. The crux of the route is comprised of two pitches that weave through the stepped 4m roofs, and now go free at 7c+ and 8a.

GETTING THERE

From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left.

ACCESS

From the car park follow a small path up to the wall.

DESCENT

From the ledge at mid height traverse right and scramble back down to the pass.

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BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

8a

FACE

S

LENGTH

230m

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