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Freudenschreck

First ascent: Thomas Senf, Martin Reber 07/2017
By: Thomas Senf
Area: Alpi Bernesi, Group: Schreckhorn - Wetterhorn chain, Peak: Schreckhorn, Country: Switzerland, Region: Bernese Oberland

Outstanding rock climb up the Schreckhorn in a high alpine setting that provides an exceptional climbing experience in the Bernese Alps. The arête ascends the obvious pillar on the shoulder of the SW Ridge. From the shoulder the Schreckhorn summit can be reached easily be following the most beautiful section of the normal route. Ideal for stable sunny days with little snow.

ACCESS

From the Schreckhornhüt­te follow the Normal Route to the Schreckhorn. From the Bergschrund on the Normal Route descend to the base of the pillar. The Schreckcouloir leads directly to the base of the pillar but is exposed to rockfall.

ROUTE

L1: 6a, 45 m
L2: III, 45 m
L3: IV, 45 m
L4: 5a, 45 m
L5: 6a, 40 m
L6: 5c, 45 m
L7: 6a, 45 m
L8: 6a+, 35 m
L9: 5c, 40 m
L10: 5c, 50 m
L11: 5a, 50 m

DESCENT

Descent is possible by abseiling down the route.

GEAR

2x50m ropes, Camalot 0.1 - 3, 1 set of nuts + gear for crossing the glacier

NOTES

All belays are bolted but skill is required to place the trad gear along the pitches.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Summer

DIFFICULTY

6a+

FACE

SW

LENGTH

485 m

PDF

Freudenschreck

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LINK

www.thomassenf.ch

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