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Pace in Siria

First ascent: Established ground-up by Marco Bozzetta and Francesco Salvaterra, completed spring 2016
By: Marco Bozzetta
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Valle del Sarca, Peak: Monte Dain, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Pace in Siria, Peace in Syria, provides beautiful climbing up excellent limestone. Continuous 6c/7a difficulties lead past technical climbing requiring finger strength and good footwork, typical of Valle del Sarca. The route is entirely protected by bolts but a good dose of courage is needed as some obligatory sections are fairly run-out. The belays are all comfortable and set up for abseil retreats. This may become a classic outing in the Sarca valley.

GETTING THERE

From Trento or Arco drive through the Sarca valley, towards Sarche located at the foot of Mt. Dain. Park at the motorcross track close to Pietramurata, at Ciclamino.

ACCESS

Follow the tarmac road south (towards Arco) coasting the piste, this soon transforms into a dirt track and leads to a junction leftwards. Ignore this and continue straight for another 100 meters. After a slight climb, reach a fence on the left, with access ban. Cross the vineyard and pass through another gate to enter the forest below the wall. Follow the path through the woods up to a rock with cairn marker and the word "Genoma". Leave the track at this point and traverse right, past huge boulders, following cairns and yellow markers to reach the base of the face. A ramp with an obvious track and yellow markers leads diagonally right to the base of the route. The route name is written at the start. 45 minutes from the car park.

ROUTE

P1: 6c+, 40m, 8 bolts
P2: 7a+, 30m, 8 bolts
P3: 6c, 30m, 5 bolts
P4: 6b, 15m, 4 bolts
P5: 7a, 35m, 8 bolts
P6: 7a+, 20m, 4 bolts
P7: 6c, 20m, 5 bolts
P8: 6a, 40m, 7 bolts

DESCENT

Abseil with at least a 60m rope, down via Genoma and then down Pace in Siria. From the final belay: 1. 25m abseil, straight down. 2. 18m abseil, straight down. 3.15m abseil, straight down, then move right 10m along the ledge. 4. 30m abseil, straight down (overhanging). 5. 20m abseil, straight down to the third belay of Pace in Siria. From here continue down the route via another 3 rappels.

GEAR

1 x 60m rope, 9 quickdraws

NOTES

Thanks to: La Sportiva, Climbing Technology, Ferrino.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c+

FACE

SE

LENGTH

230m

LINK ZONE

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LINK

www.guide-alpine.it

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