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Azazar

First ascent: Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer and Patrik Aufdenblatten 04/2013
By: Planetmountain
Area: Morocco, Group: High Atlas, Peak: Tadrarate, Height: 2803m, Country: Morocco, Region: High Atlas

In April 2013 Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer and Patrik Aufdenblatten made the first ascent of Azazar (400m, 8a) up the Tadrarate rock face in the Taghia Gorge, Morocco.
Papert described the nine pitch line as "a somewhat alpine outing because of the long runouts on all pitches. But the climbing is very varied and steep overhangs are quickly followed by extremely rough slabs and our route is certainly no walkover: the difficulties never diminish and the climbing is demanding, both physically and psychologically, throughout."

GETTING THERE

Reach the village of Taghia.

ACCESS

From Taghia follow the Berber path Akka ‘n Taghia gorge for 2 hours to reach the base of the route. Azazar starts circa 100m to the right of Antro.po.cene.

ROUTE

P1: 8a
P2: 7c
P3: 7b
P4: 8a
P5: 7b
P6: 7b
P7: 6c
P8: 6b+
P9: 6b

DESCENT

Abseil down the route

GEAR

The route is protected by 80 bolts (including the belays) but long run-outs make this a demanding outing.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7b+

FACE

Southwest

LENGTH

400m

LINK ZONE

Read main article

LINK

www.ines-papert.de

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