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Red, Moon and Star

First ascent: Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher 10/2010. FFA: Rolando Larcher
By: Rolando Larcher
Area: Anatolia, Group: Ala Daglar, Peak: Kizilin Bacì, Height: 2944m, Country: Turkey, Region: Cappadocia

The Northwest Face of Kizilin Basì (Parete Scarlatta) is a 400m high yellow limestone wall, entirely overhanging and extremely impressive from below without many obvious lines of weakness.  Red, Moon and Star climbs the obvious pillar on the right-hand side called The Butterfly.

ACCESS

From Camardi reach Elekgolù. From the center of the village continue for 200m, when the dirt track narrows take the first fork left. The road narrows and ascends past apple trees and irrigation channels towards Kizilin Bacì. Circa 500m after the plantations the steppe begins, continue straight ahead towards the only tree on the left. At the next fork turn left, first level, then upwards. After circa 1km park on the right at the first fork, at circa 1800m. If you have a 4x4 you can continue to the end of the road at circa 2000m altitude but shifted somewhat to the left of the wall. At the base of the wall follow the right-hand fork and the road soon thins into a narrow track. Ascend meadows and clearings, then continue through the forest past some rocky outcrops at reach the final scree slopes and the red Butterfly amphitheatre. The start of the route is to the right of the enormous yellow cave at 2400m. 1:30 from the car.

ROUTE

P1: 7b, 55m
P2: 6c, 20m
P3: 7c, 30m
P4: 7a, 30m
P5: 7b, 35m
P6: 7b+, 50m
P7: 7c+, 30m
P8: 7b, 50m
P9: 8a/8a+, 50m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route, taking great care to clip in to the anchors as the face overhangs 20m.

GEAR

Two 60m ropes, 11 quickdraws, a set of camming devices from micro to #1 1 camalot, kevlar for the threads.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a/8a+ max

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7b

FACE

North

LENGTH

400m

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