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Varuk

First ascent: Massimo & Luciano Da Pozzo, Roberta Alberti & T.Cipriano, 1998
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Nuvolao, Peak: Gusela, Country: Italy

Slightly overhanging face climbing, both sustained and technical. The route follows the obvious arête on the left-hand side of the wall. Although bolt protected, these were placed on lead; run-outs are not uncommon. The rock is practically devoid of natural pro.

ACCESS

Approach the Gusela by leaving the car at Passo Giau and walk up the ridge to the obvious yellow face on the right-hand side of the Nuvolao's south face. A path leads along the base, up a series of ledges, to the start to the left of a detached pillar. Allow 30 minutes for the walk-in.Start a few meters to the left C'est plus facile, beneath the obvious arête.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route.

GEAR

A 60m rope and 10 quickdraws.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7c+

FACE

S

LENGTH

170m

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