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Wüstenblume

First ascent: Josef Hilpold, Ulrich Viertler 2013
By: Ulrich Viertler
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sass de la Crusc, Peak: Sass de la Crusc, Height: 2908m, Country: Italy, Region: Alto Adige

Over a six day period this summer the two South Tyrolean climbers Josef Hilpold and Ulrich Viertler made the first ascent of Wüstenblume - desert flower - up the pillar located between the routes Mutschlecher - Großrubatscher and Diedro Mayerl on Sass de la Crusc above Val Badia in the Dolomies. The route was freed on 28 September with difficulties up to VIII+ protected by pegs and trad gear, while the for the first ascent Hilpold and Viertler inverted the traditional rules of the "game", climbing first the upper half, then the lower half of the route.

GETTING THERE

Take the motorway A22 to Bressanone, then continue along the SS49 through the Val Pusteria to S.Lorenzo. Continue along the SS244 through the Val Badia to Corvara. Alternatively, take the motorway A22 to Chiusa and continue along the SS242 up the Val Gardena to Passo Gardena and down to Corvara. At Corvara follow signs for La Villa - Pedraces. At Pedraces take the chairlift on the right to the refuge and church Santa Croce, from where the path leads off to the base of the routes.

ACCESS

From Santa Croce (2045m), beneath Sass dla Crusc, follow path no. 7 that leads beneath the mountain past scree slopes and alpine meadows up to the ferrata. The path initially leads over scree to then climb up rightwards. Leave the path at this point following a track (cairn markers) up the long outcrop to the base of the wall proper. Various tracks lead to the route at this point: traverse left at the end over the final outcrop and scramble up scree towards the base of the large corner.

DESCENT

From the top of the route follow the crest and path right (south) to reach Furcla dla Crusc 2609m and the cables belonging to the ferrate. Walk down this to meet up with the path that leads to the Santa Croce refuge (1.30 hours).

GEAR

Normal alpine rack.

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DIFFICULTY

VIII+

LENGTH

400m

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Wüstenblume

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