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Regno dei Cieli

Italy>Sardinia>Ogliastra>Baunei

Nicholas Hobley

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Climbing in Sardinia: Regno dei Cieli

Nicholas Hobley

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

6b - 7b

Height

350 metri, ma la maggior parte delle vie sono di 2/3 tiri.

Link

www.pietradiluna.com

Routes number

Rock type

Sharp, compact grey limestone.

Orientation

Rope

Two 60m ropes. The cliff is approx. 350m high, but most routes are 2-3 pitches long.

One of Sardinia's best, this impressive and atmospheric cliff commands respect. The routes are sharp, technical and sustained, either vertical or slightly overhanging, and very exposed. They are reached via abseil and start way above the ledge at half-height. An abseil retreat is impossible so, if in doubt, leave a fixed rope. Many routes were re-equipped in April 2000 by Lorenzo Nadali, who would like to thank Kong for donating the bolts.

Access

Follow the SS125 to Baunei and turn left shortly before entering the village proper (sign for Ristorante del Golgo). Continue steeply uphill, turn right at the first hairpin bend (signposted Monte Ginnirco) and follow the dirt track to where it joins another road. Turn right and continue first down into the valley and then up, past further hairpin bends, to an open space and some shacks at Cuile su Idileddu. Leave the car here and follow vague tracks seawards to a copse of large trees and then down through a narrow valley. As this widens walk up its left slope and over razor-sharp weathered limestone to the top of the routes. These are marked but not easy to find - with a bit of luck and skill you should reach them in approx. 30 min.

Logistics

Wild camping is strictly prohibited in the National Park, but the municipal campsite in Cala Gonone is prohibitively expensive! Rooms or apartments can easily be found by asking around - expect to pay between 15-20 euro/head.

There are small supermarkets in Cala Gonone and Baunei, while to the north of Olbia there is an enormous out-of-town shopping mall.

Period

Autumn or spring. September is particularly good since the sea is beautifully warm and the island relatively free of tourists. Summer is unbearably hot and winter can often be too cold and windy.

Climb

Technical vertical face climbing up sharp, compact limestone.

Notes

Getting to Sardinia
By plane: fly to Cagliari, Olbia or Alghero and then hire a car.
By car: take one of the numerous ferries from Genova, Livorno, Rome or Naples to Olbia. From Olbia take the highways SS125 and SS131 southwards towards Nuoro. Exit before Nuoro following signs to Dorgali. Shortly after this town a signposted road leads left through a tunnel down to Cala Gonone (approx. 100km, 1.5 hrs).
Baunei is reached via the winding SS125 from Dorgagli in about an hour (50km).
For ferry information visit either www.mobylines.it or www.corsicaferries.com

	News Sardinia
	www.sardiniaclimb.com

Bibliography

Pietra Di Luna - a guide to sport climbing in Sardinia - Crags by Maurizio Oviglia (Fabula 2011)

Sectors

Regno dei Cieli

Routes

N°	Name	Difficulty
1	Nel regno dei cieli	7a+, 7b, 6c+, 6c+
2	Corracon espinado	7a+
3	Canne al vento	6c, 6c
4	Plein air	7b, 6b+
5	Mujeres au borde	6b+, 6c
6	Shiatsu	6c, 7a
7	Il senso della vita	6c+, 7a
8	Lo stato delle cose	6c+
9	Pace dei sensi	6c
10	Aguaplano	6b+ (da richiodare)
11	Mezieres	7b (da richiodare)
12	Un piede in paradiso	7a, 7a+, 7a+, 6a
13	Spleen	7a+ (da richiodare)
14	Loco de amor	6c (da richiodare)