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Climbing at Ceredo
Planetmountain
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4c - 8b+
Height
40m
Routes number
180
Rock type
Excellent limestone with pockets, edges and many, many tufas.
Orientation
SE - SW
Rope
A 70m rope is essential.


Ceredo is without doubt one of the most interesting and beautiful crags in the North of Italy. It lies just a few kilometers north of Verona and hosts more than 180 routes of all grades. The limestone is excellent and varies in angle from technical slabs and vertical faces to massively steep overhangs.

Access

Ceredo, situated on the slopes of the Monti Lessini, can be reached from two directions. If you come from the west, east or south take the Milano-Venezia (A4) motorway and exit at Verona Est. Take the main road northwards towards Boscochiesanuova then drive past some small villages to Stallavena and follow the signs to Ebrezzo. The drive up into the foothills begins after the long valley and the villages Lugo and Bellori. Soon after, where the road forks for Ceredo and Fosse, turn left. Park the car on the left on the long, straight, uphill stretch of road after the hairpin bend. It can get extremely crowded at the weekends so don't take up more room than necessary. If you come from the north, drive down the Brennero (A22) motorway and exit at Ala-Avio. Continue south to Peri and drive up the windy road to the village of Fosse. From here descend for Grezzana and Verona. Park the car after about 6km on the right (see the instructions above for further details). From here walk up the path to the various sectors that remain slightly hidden from view because of the trees.

Logistics

The pizzeria Gavinel in Ceredo (tel. 045/7535084) rents out rooms and there are other B&B's in the nearby villages. It is strictly forbidden to camp near the cliff. The area around Grezzana has some good pizzerias and trattorias, but if you are after something special then don't miss out on Verona.

Period

Spring and autumn, but not when it's hot or after extended periods of rain as the crag seeps. It is possible to climb in winter on clear, still days, but remember that the sun disappears early . The routes face SE to SW, depending on the sector.

Climb

The routes are almost all extremely long and pumpy.

Notes

The path leads directly to the first sector which has routes up to 6c. Mangiafuoco and the routes nearby are an excellent introduction to the crag. Continue rightwards for Settore Centrale and then the showpiece of this crag, Settore Strapiombi. Both these sectors are described in greater detail below. There are four other sectors further right still; the most interesting of these are Pec Blenda, an impressivly steep cave, and Tre amici, which has a number of routes up to 6c. All the routes (more than 180!) are superbly equipped with bolts and belay chains. Pay attention to the end of the rope when lowering off as many routes are longer than 25m and some are 30m or even more! This crag was discovered, cleaned, and bolted by a handfull of local climbers - all the credit goes to them.

Bibliography

A detailed guidebook can be bought at the pizzeria Gavinel in Ceredo. It covers all the sectors, not just those included below. The profits from this book are used to finance the bolting of the crag.




Sectors

Settore A
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 The rings 6c+
2 Maui 7a+
3 S.N. 7b
4 Petra 7b+
5 Supercanna 7b+
6 Graffiti nel cielo 7b
7 Cimici civili 6c+
8 Perla nera 7b
9 Baron Cervone 7b+
10 Eroi di pietra 7c
11 Il Samana 7b
12 Stalactite 7a
13 Torre d'acciaio 6c
14 Urla fiamminghe 7a+
15 Blanco canyon 6b
16 Polska 6a+
17 Pioggia di luce 6b+
18 Pilier 1886 6c+
19 No fly zone 7a
20 The scream 6c
21 Lady B 7a
22 Homo roc 7b
23 Determinator 7a
24 Wild love 6b
Settore B
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Erendira 6c
2 L'amore ai tempi del colera 6b+
3 Avesa connection 6c+
4 Mondo cano 6c
5 Diretta dell'altro mondo 7a+
6 Progetto nella caverna
7 Equilibristi esausti 7a+
8 Cèredoleso 7a+
9 Come volano i tacchini 6c+
10 Vento del tempo 6b+
11 Merenguero 7a+
12 Hot line 7b+
13 Piedi di piombo 7a+
14 Cavalca il serpente 7b
15 Zaquete 7b+
16 Exis 7c+
17 a sin. di Calypso
18 Calypso 7a+
Settore C
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 S.N. 7a+
2 Vertigo 7c+
3 Ritorno a Itaca 8a+
4 Afrodisia 8b
5 Wonderwall 8a
6 L'eterno riposo 8a+
7 L'ombra del lupo 7c
8 Apokatastasis 7c+, lunga 8a+
9 Hidrospeed 8a+
10 Miracle 8a
11 No fear 7b+
12 7b
13 Magnificat 8a+
14 Scontro finale 8a+
15 Dolce follia 7b+
16 Anima Mundi 8b
17 Dies Irae 8b
18 Australia 8b
19 Fessura della paura 7b
20 Waka tanka 8a
21 Ostramanda 8a+
22 Kinesis 7c+/8a
23 Spigolo del sole 8a
24 Sogni di Veia 7a+
25 Isabella di Spagna 6b
26 Salamanca 6a+





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4c - 8b+
Height
40m
Routes number
180
Rock type
Excellent limestone with pockets, edges and many, many tufas.
Orientation
SE - SW
Rope
A 70m rope is essential.


Position



Crags in the same region


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