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Sperlonga Avancorpo di Sinistra

Italy>Lazio>Latina>Sperlonga

Bruno Moretti, Tommaso Sciannella, Bruno Vitale

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

4c - 6c+

Routes number

25

Rock type

Pocketed limestone

Orientation

SE

Despite not being one of the biggest sectors at Sperlonga, the Avancorpo di Sinistra certainly offers some of the most interesting climbing in this area thanks to the quality of its limestone and the beauty of its routes. The crag's vertical faces are littered with tiny pockets which, even though not extremely difficult, nevertheless require excellent finger strength and great footwork. Routes such as Ossessione millimetrica, Taxifobia and Elefante in Calzamaglia are a great test for those who love mid-grade slab routes. This sector is one of the best in the area and certainly worth a visit.

Access
Park at the restaurant "Ristoro da Guido" (Piana di S. Agostino, Gaeta), walk along the road SS Flacca towards Sperlonga on the pavement on the right, past houses, camper areas and a rockfall protection net and then the viaduct. Reach the end of this and, just before entering the tunnel, walk up the steps on the right, follow the path to the first fork and then head off left up the steep track. Follow this, keeping left, to reach the small sector "Mercatino delle Pulci" on the right. Continue for circa 50m to reach the grey Avancorpo di Sinistra rock face, dominated by the imposing and historic "Parete del Chiromante". Bibliography
BLUE ROCK 2
900 itinerari d’arrampicata tra Sperlonga, Gaeta “classica” e dintornie by Bruno Moretti, Tommaso Sciannella, Bruno Vitale Verdone Editore (2012)

Sectors

Avancorpo di Sinistra

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Beauty	Difficulty
1	Sognare sotto il sole di natale	20m		6a+
	strapiombo/placca
2	Oltretromba	20m		6b
	strapiombo/placca
3	Scuola Baden Baden	20m		6b+
	strapiombo/placca
4	Istanbul express	20m		6b+
	placca/muro verticale
5	Il signore della notte	22m		6a+
	placca/bombè/diedro
6	Il morbo di Tommy	18m		6a+
	placca tecnica
7	Sabbie mobili	18m		6a
	placca
8	Ossessione millimetrica	18m		6c+
	placca molto tecnica e di difficile interpretazione
9	Sandra	20m		5c+
	placca con traverso a metà
10	Time out	5m		6a
	placca (variante alta dell’it.9)
11	Elefante in calzamaglia	18m		6b
	placca
12	Pelle di luna	18m		6b
	tettino/placca (confluisce nell’it. 11)
13	Il sentiero degli asfodeli	20m		5c+
	tettino/diedro/placca
14	Inox	22m		6a
	diedro/placca
15	Taxifobia	18m		6b+
	diedro e placca
16	Il gigante	18m		6c
	placca/strapiombo
17	Vaffanguru	20m		6b
	placca/tettino
18	Via dei bolognesi	20m		6b
	placca/bombè
19	Rinaldik il terribile	20m		6a
	fessura/placca/diedro
20	Recinto ruspante	24m		6a
	placca/diedro
21	Nero e nera	20m		6c
	diedro/muro verticale
22	Straziami ma di baci saziami	20m		6c+
	placca/tettino/spigolo e muro verticale
23	Viper	15m		4c
	placca
24	La moda del pesce	15m		6b
	placca (fedelmente sulla linea dei fix)
25	Sushi	17m		5b
	diedro/placca/spigolo

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Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

4c - 6c+

Routes number

25

Rock type

Pocketed limestone

Orientation

SE

Crags in the same region

Subiaco

Grotti