Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowCrags arrowVillanuova

Villanuova

By: Andrea Polo
Country: Italy, Region: Friuli Venezia Giulia, Town: Villa Santina (Udine)

Villanuova is a historic little crag in the Carnia region of NE Italy, ideal for sport climbing in winter. Most of the development took place during the '90's by Toni Cattarino and Alex Cucchiaro and they were joined by Luciano 'Chen' Cimenti, certainly one of the strongest climbers in Italy at the time. In recent years Gianni 'Doc' Cattaino and friends have added some new routes and re-equipped some old ones.

GETTING THERE

Take the motorway A23, exit at Tolmezzo and follow signs for this town by taking the SS52. After circa 6km bear right, following signs for Villa Santina. Reach this and bear right towards Sappada to reach Sot Clap, 100m after the sign on the left for Raveo. park on the left close to the cycle path or on the right, but not in the inviting field as this is private property. From the car park take the obvious path, sign-posted for Loc. Avaglio. Walk past the barriers and close to the scree slope follow the track rightwards which leads up to the base of the crag, circa 15 minutes from the car.

THE CLIMBING

The limestone is extremely compact with small crimps and little pockets, offering technical stamina climbing. Smooth slabs and vertical faces are broken by short, physically demanding cruxes. Some of the harder routes have resin here and there - in keeping with the 90's - but this takes nothing away from the beauty of Villanuova which really is worth a visit. The routes are equipped with 10mm stainless steel or resin bolts.

Share this page

Comments for "Villanuova"

No comments for Villanuova

Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

BEST TIME OF YEAR

The crag receives the sun from the morning to evening and this favourable aspect means that climbing can take place even on cold, but sunny, winter days.

HEIGHT

30m

ROPE

70m rope

GRADES

6b - 8b/c

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

SW

NUMBER OF ROUTES

30

VOTE / crag
VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Add your vote
COMMENT / crag

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH crags

AREA

Crag

More crags near Friuli Venezia Giulia
EXPO / Products
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
Recent Comments
  • La beffa
    Portare Camalot dal 0.3 fino al #1, anche qualche stopper. L ...
    2014-07-18 / Luciano Calvelo
  • Spigolo Ovest - Wiessner - Kees
    Percorsa nel 1978, ma la ricordo perfettamente. Via all'alte ...
    2014-07-13 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Spigolo Nord Ovest
    Ripetuta qualche anno fa. Salita magnifica in ambiente stupe ...
    2014-07-12 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Spitagoras
    Bella via su roccia da buona ad ottima. Chiodatura da via al ...
    2014-07-07 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello