Trad Area

ZOOM ++

Half-way between Roccia Rè and Roccabruj a new crag was discovered by Mountain Guide Alberto Fantone who, with the help of Mario Brovia and Adriano Coero Borga, established a series of trad routes located within the forest just before the fork for Oncino on the main road that runs through the Po valley.

At present 23 pitches have been climbed and the grades, indicated at the base, range from 5a to 7a. Each route has tree abseils, the idea being to enable others to experience traditional clean climbing without bolts.

Plans are underway to add new routes and for those wishing to ascend no lines I recommend, despite not being a fanatical "anti-bolt" advocate, the do so with trad gear only. Those wishing to climb on bolts can climb on the 189 routes located at the two crags nearby crags.

Given its ease of access, the large car park and beauty of the routes this will certainly transform into an excellent trad crag in southern Piemonte.

GETTING THERE

Take the main road s.p. 662 through valle Po, past Paesana and Calcinere towards Crissolo and reach the Oncino fork. Park in the large car park just before the bridge. A red arrow is clearly visible on the right, follow this trail up through the forest to the crag. This is comprised of numerous sectors, download the map so as not to get lost. 10 minute walk-in.

THE CLIMBING

Alternatively, toprope and abseil off the trees.

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