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Gorg Blau

By: Alan James
Country: Spain, Region: Mallorca, Town: Mallorca (Mallorca)

Set high up in the mountains on the long Ma-10 north coast road, Gorg Blau is best considered as a warm weather venue to escape from the heat. The gorge itself consists of a narrowing valley lined with black and red-streaked limestone cliffs on each side. The valley leads to a tall dam and hydro electric station which do detract slightly from the otherwise magnificent setting.

Described here are the first two sectors you reach - Sector Torrente which is the west wall of the gorge, and Sector Des Cables which is a steep buttress on the east wall. Sector Plaques is further to the left of Cable and has more than 20 great routes in the 6c to 8a range.

GETTING THERE

The gorge is situated at the top of the approach road to Sa Calobra on the Ma-10, to the north of the mountains. This can be reached from either Sóller or Pollença depending on where you are staying. Once on the road, continue until you reach a turning for Sa Calobra, by a large, arched viaduct - about 20km from Sóller and 30km from Pollença. Turn onto the Sa Colobra road and immediately park on the left in a lay-by, opposite the cafe/shop - do not park by the cafe/shop. On the opposite side of the road is a bridge and a fenced off entrance. Drop down to the left of the fence and then scramble up again to gain the track on the other side of the fence. The track leads to the gorge in a couple of minutes where the crags are obvious.

THE CLIMBING

The climbing is fairly extensive, although still in its relative infancy when you consider how much rock there is around. Most of the routes consist of long, vertical or slightly overhanging pitches, sometimes following tufas and almost always on excellent-quality rock. There are a few easier routes but in reality Gorg Blau is only of any real interest to those operating at 6b and above.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Mallorca. Sport climbing and Deep Water Soloing by Alan James and Mark Glaister, Rockfax Publishing

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SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

When it is hot, the gorge will offer cool climbing with shade always available on one side or the other. In the height of summer it is probably too hot, even here, while Gorg Blau seeps badly and is a very chilly spot in the cooler months. If there is little seepage on the mountain crags and no wind, then it could be worth a look, but remember to pack your duvet. If it is raining, it will offer some dry climbing if the seepage hasn't set in.

ROPE

70m rope

GRADES

4a - 8c

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

West, East

LINK

rockfax.com

NUMBER OF ROUTES

48

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