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Telendos - Glaros

By: Aris Theodoropoulos
Country: Greece, Region: Kalymnos, Town: Telendos (Dodecanese)

Telendos, the little island opposite Kalymnos, has recently been enriched with Glaros, a new crag located on a stunning natural balcony overlooking the sea which is expected to be one of the hidden gems of Kalymnos climbing.

Situated on the north side of Telendos, immediately above Pescatore and to the right of the sector Irox, the rock is not sharp despite its proximity to the sea.

One of the crag's main plus points is that that it enjoys the shade all day long, making it ideal for the hot summer days. The only times when climbing at Glaros is not ideal is on very humid days with no breeze, or after extended rain.

Sector Glaros was established during the unusually cold and rainy months of December 2008 by Swiss mountain guides Peter Keller and Urs Odermatt, who spent a week on the practically deserted Telendos working unstoppably. Keller and Odermatt were also instrumental in the development of sector Irox. The routes Tipota (8c?) and Apagorevmeno Oniro (?) were established in April 2008 by the French equippers of sector Crystal Cave, namely Gaetan Raymond, Thibault Saubusse, Quentin Jaillard and Quentin Chastagnier, all from Grenoble.

GETTING THERE

From Kalymnos take the boat to Telendos. Follow the trail to sector Eros and then descend towards the sea. Shortly before you reach Irox, turn left, and follow the signs and cairns. The final 10m are up a vertical wall with a fixed rope. This will be replaced by permanent via Ferrata-type steps. A much quicker and less strenuous approach is by boat. Contact captain Yiannis (tel. +30-694-481-9073) and he will take you to Irox. Reach this crag in 5 minutes walk, then follow the signs and cairns to the left of the sector. The walk from the sea is 15 min.

THE CLIMBING

At present there are 18 routes circa 30m high. The easiest routes are located on the smooth gray wall on the left, offering unique slopers and underclings. The central section offers solid white tufas lending themselves to beautiful, slightly overhanging climbing. But wait – what is that further right blocking our view to the sky? A smooth, 45° overhanging wall marked by white, orange and black vertical stripes. Huge holds, but... how long can you really last at such an angle?

NOTES

Kalymnos rock climbing in Greece

GETTING TO KALYMNOS
By boat

Kalymnos can be reached by boat from the island Kos. Once you have landed in Kos, take a taxi to the port at Mastichari and catch the next boat to Kalymnos from there. Mastichari is 10 minutes by taxi from Kos airport and the taxi ride costs €12 - €15 euro in total. Regular ferries and smaller speed boats make the Mastichari – Pothia (Kalymnos) route regularly. The ferry ride takes approximately 45 minutes and costs €4; the speedboat takes approximately 25 minutes and costs €6.00. When you arrive at Pothia (the main port in Kalymnos) you will find a number of taxis waiting. A taxi ride to Massouri costs between €10-15, depending on the number of passengers and luggage. Alternatively, you can rent a scooter or car, or inquire about the public bus schedule departing in front of the City Hall. There is a tourist information kiosk at the port exit. To check the Kos – Kalymnos ferry timetable, go to www.danae.gr and enter ‘Mastichari’ and ‘Kalymnos’ in the respective fields.  You can also call the Port Authority of Kos for an automated timetable message in English on the following number: +30 22420 26594. In the unlikely event that there is no taxi waiting at Pothia, call the taxi station on the following number: +30 22430 50300.

By plane
In high season Olympic Air flies Athens - Kalymnos regularly and a return ticket costs approximately euro 200.

Further info
Full info on getting to Kalymnos here: www.climbkalymnos.com/?page_id=2628

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guide – All New 2010 Edition. Aris Theodoropoulos. 360 pages, 1700 routes, 64 sectors, English
 

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

Glaros faces north and is in the shade all day.

HEIGHT

30m

ROPE

70m rope

GRADES

5a - 8c

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

North

LINK

climbkalymnos.com

NUMBER OF ROUTES

18

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