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Plakias

By: Aris Theodoropoulos
Country: Greece, Region: Crete, Town: Plakias (Creta)

Crete, the largest island in Greece, is famous for its remarkable history, its rugged beauty and long sandy beaches which make it an ideal holiday destination for thousands of tourists every year.

While the vast majority flock to the northern shores, most do not realise that this wild and arid island is extremely attractive for those in search of solitary treks down winding gorges, ski mountaineering high in the mountains, long multi-pitch climbs and difficult sport climbs just a stone's throw from the less crowded sandy beaches in the south.

Plakias itself is a sheer vertical limestone wall which dominates the sandy beach close to town on the island's south. The first climbs were established in the early '80's but the majority were developed fairly recently, and some projects are still waiting to be freed.

Plakias is special little crag but it certainly isn't the only place to climb on Crete: Agiofaraggo is the most famous outcrop on this enormous island with circa 80 routes up to 8b, while other important areas include Trahoulas and Kapetaniana.

If you're planning on combing relaxation, culture and climbing, Crete may be just the island you're looking for.

GETTING THERE

Either fly or take a ferry to Crete. Plakias is located 35km due south of Rethymnon, one of the main cities in northern Crete. The cliff is situated at the eastern edge of the town above a very beautiful sandy nudist beach.

THE CLIMBING

As can be seen from the photos, the crag is a completely smooth vertical limestone face, with some nice cracks and small tufas.

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

Accommodation in Plakias.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of
by Aris Theodoropoulos
Includes the following area:
Thessaly: Meteora; Pyli Little Gorge; Mouzaki; Almyros
Athens area (Central Greece): Mavrosouvala; Hasia Cave; Acharneis; Mikri Varasova/Epos Filis; Sesi; Vrachokipos; Lelaki; Chaos
Patras area (Western Greece): Alepochori; Chatzouri; Kleisoura; Varasova
Peloponnese ( Southern Greece): Nafplio; Leonidio; Kyparissi; Zobolo; Lagada; Nedousa
Aegean islands: Symi; Anafi; Crete (the crags: Voulismeno Aloni, Plakias and Tersanas Cave)

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

The best climbing seasons in Plakias are spring and autumn, but even summer is OK as long as you stay in the shade. The cliff is in the shade from morning until almost 15:00. Avoid climbing on windy days.

HEIGHT

35m

ROPE

70m rope

GRADES

5a - 8a+

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

SW

LINK

climbincrete.com

NUMBER OF ROUTES

22

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