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El Chorro - Las Encantadas

By: Mark Glaister
Country: Spain, Region: Andalusia, Town: El Chorro (Andalusia)

The magnificent cliff of Las Encantadas - the Enchanted Crag - lives up to its name. It is set in a commanding position, overlooking the valley that runs down to Malaga, and has a set of routes that deserve the attention of all climbers who enjoy long, sustained and technical wall climbs; the harder routes especially are amongst the best in the area. If the crag has a fault then it is that it catches all the sun that is going and turns into an unbearable oven in warm conditions.

GETTING THERE

Las Encantadas is reached from El Chorro village by following the road past the Station Bar and carrying straight on up out of the village on the road to Valle de Abdalajis. After 0.5km the road levels out and the crag comes into view on the left just above the road. On the road directly below the crag are pull-offs on the right - park here and walk back down the road a few metres to below the far left end of the crag. From here pick up a path that heads right to the base of the crag. For the upper crag use the same approach and from the right end of the lower crag walk and scramble up rightwards to the upper crag. Do not approach the crag directly above the building below the crag.

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

Accommodation is not a problem in El Chorro. Visitors can choose from a campsite, the characteristic climbers' "refugio", the hotel next to the station and many welcoming "fincas". Finca la Campana, run by John and Christine, is friendly and highly recommended. e-mail el-chorro@el-chorro.com.

NOTES

In the past bad behaviour by climbers resulted in the owner banning climbing and removing many of the first bolts, however this situation has now eased and most of the bolts are back in, new routes have started to be put up and some rebolting work undertaken. Nevertheless, good behaviour here is absolutely essential; the owner has the property below the crag and noise should be kept to a minimum and no dogs are permitted.

El Camino del Rey - El Chorro

BIBLIOGRAPHY

El Chorro by Mark Glaister, Rockfax

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

The crag gets the sun for almost all of the day and can be very hot although it does pick up a breeze. The climbs all dry quickly after rainfall but there isn't usually much climbing to be had when it is raining.

HEIGHT

40m

ROPE

70 m rope

GRADES

4a - 8b

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

S

LINK

rockfax.com

NUMBER OF ROUTES

36

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