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Nicholas Hobley
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Matteo Bicego
Fonzaso certainly needs no big introduction. For long winters this historic crag located next to the San Micel hermitage has been the favourite spot for climbers from the Dolomites Feltre and Primiero region. Since the early '70's these climbers have slowly but surely pushed the art of technical climbing ever upwards to the unthinkable grades of 8c and 9a in this third millennium.
Obvioulsy this crag is intrinsically connected to the likes of Yuri Gadenz, Manolo and Riccardo Scarian and the crag, once shunned and unfashionable, is currently reliving a second moment of glory.
This band of compact grey and white limestone offers a selection of 40 technical routes marked by micro edges and pockets where stamina and above all excellent footwork are the key to success. Conditions pay an important role too and from 11 - 15 the winter sun creates a "micro-climate" which is ideal for these small holds. And if it is still too hot all you need to do is wait for the sun to disappear behind the mountain: it's now time for half an hour of perfect friction. This magical moment is often accompanied by a bonfire to keep hands and feet at just the right temperature
Fonzaso is located circa 2 hours north of Venice at the start of the Italian Dolomites. Take the SS47 Val Sugana which heads north from Bassano del Grappa towards Trento and exit onto the SS50 bis for Feltre/Fiera di Primiero. Floow this, then turn off onto the SR50 for Fiera di Primiero and exit for Fonzaso after a couple of km. Reach the church in the center of the village, follow signs for "Eremo di San Micel" and park the car in the large town square. Continue of foot following the signs for the hermitage at first, then break off right and traverse beneath the rock band to reach the crag proper. Walk-in 20 minutes.
PeriodWinter. The crag is located at 450m and is ideal on sunny winter days. In summer the crag resembles an oven.
ClimbTechnical climbing on stratified limestone, small edges and shallow pockets. A route list is located next to the small stone hut.
Notes
The local climbing association Climband has recently rebolted the routes.
Falesie delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. Con le falesie Coi, Val Barance, Igne, Cajada, Maè, Podenzoi, Malcolm, Teatro, Casso, Erto, Cimolais, Polpet, Val Galina, Soverzene, Soccher, Dolada, Teverone, Quantin, Fadalto Basso, Ceresera, Mas, Le Rosse, Mis, Val Canzoi, Le Perine, Fonzaso, Tarzan Wall
See all photos| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Top secret | |
6b+ | |
| 2 | All I want is you | |
6c | |
| 3 | Il corvo | |
6c | |
| 4 | Il castigo divino | |
6b | |
| 5 | Pirulino | |
7a |
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sterminio di autotrofi | |
6b+/6c | |
| 2 | Adrenalina a colazione | |
6b+ | |
| 3 | Adulterio e menzogna | |
7a | |
| 4 | Apocalipse now | |
7a+/7b | |
| 4 | Rave party | |
7c+ | |
| 5 | Vietato bussare | |
6c | |
| 6 | Biancaneve | |
7a | |
| 7 | Il parco della luna | |
7a+/7b | |
| 8 | Profondo rosso | |
7b+ | |
| 9 | Off limits | |
8a+ | |
| 10 | Senza nome | |
? | |
| 11 | Il Conte e dominator | |
7c+ | |
| 12 | La papamobile | |
? | |
| 13 | Rociaviva | |
8a+ | |
| 14 | Belfagor | |
8b+ | |
| 15 | Intrepido pallino | |
8a+/8b | |
| 16 | Diabloluna | |
8c | |
| 17 | Il Gladiatore | |
8c+ | |
| 18 | Drum Time | |
9a | |
| 19 | Senza nome | |
? | |
| 20 | La vespa | |
7c | |
| 21 | Violentenmente dolce | |
7c/7c+ | |
| 22 | Osteria delle dame | |
7c | |
| 23 | Benares | |
7b | |
| 24 | Oxigene | |
7a | |
| 25 | Spit and Splash | |
7a | |
| 26 | Malefica pioggia | |
7a | |
| 27 | Ragnatela | |
7a | |
| 28 | Blues and Jazz | |
7a+/7b | |
| 29 | Phantom | |
6b+/6c | |
| 30 | Tarantola | |
7b |
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