Dino Sturman, Francesco Tremolada
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4c - 8b
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SW
Rope
60m


Rock climbing in Trieste goes back a long way: generations of climbers have sped out to the nearby hills immediately after work to enjoy the limestone delights of Napoleonica, Val Rosandra and Costiera, and many, like Emilio Comici, have left their mark for others to enjoy and test their skill.

One of the most famous crags near Trieste is the Napoleonica; perched on a hill overlooking the city and its bay, this panorama is Italy's answer to Montecarlo.

Nearby Costiera is another small crag of considerable value: steep overhangs and fierce slabs combine above the water's edge to ensure a fantastic day out, before watching the sun go down and retreating to one of the many famous trattorie for a well-earned evening's meal.

If you are after a combination of tradition and relax, testpieces and trattorie, then come to Trieste. She won't disappoint

Access

Trieste is situated in the extreme NE of Italy, on the border with Slovenia. Take the A4 Venice - Trieste motorway which finishes at Trieste. Continue along the dual carriageway and exit shortly afterwards following signs for "Prosecco". Turn left at the first crossroad and left again at the next junction. Turn right 40m after this following signs for "Santuario di Monte Grisa". Drive past the sanctuary (splendid views over Trieste) on your left and continue to the next crossroad. A dead-end street leads left via a fountain to the crag

Logistics

Trieste is a bustling city with many places to eat out and lots to offer. Accommodation can be found easily. Contact the official tourist office under www.triestetourism.it

Period

All sectors face southwest and receive the sun from 11/12.00am onwards. The best time of year is therefore spring, autumn and winter.

Climb

The sectors

1. Above Napoleonica
Nice new sector with 8 routes from 6b - 7c. White slabs with small edges. Not sheltered from the Bora, perfect for spring or autumn.
Access: from the fountain take the path that leads from away from it. Turn right at the cairn (5 mins) following the grassy track to the crag.

2. Napoleonica
Napoleonica is divided up into many smaller sectors and these combined contain routes from 4a - 8b, desperate boulder problems and traverses up to 8a. This historic crag has long been the testing ground for the locals and has seen sport climbing in all its stages, from pegs and bolts to chipped and resined holds.
Good footwork and stamina are essential, but since Napoleonica has something for everyone, a visit here is obligatory.
Recommended routes: Cico ,Texi 4c, BananaRama 5c/6a, Lo Scudo 6c+, Hells Bells 7b+, Atmosfera Zero, Poker D'assi 7c, Orcobaleno 8a and Mud Club 8a.
- Climbing is possible beneath the central sector if it rains slightly.

3. The towers beneath Napoleonica
Three towers beneath Napoleonica are reached via abseil. Good slab climbing in a seemingly isolated position. 20 routes from 6a - 7a+.
60/70m ropes recommended.

4. Grotta del cane or Fontana
Small cave with 13 routes 6b - 8a+. Powerful and technical routes, hard to on-sight.
Recommended routes: la Fontana 6c, Scorpions 7b, Oklaoma 7c, Martedì Grasso 8a e Skywalker 8a+.
Access: opposite the fountain a path leads from the hand rail down towards the sea (3 mins).

5. Olimpo
7 great routes characterised by edges and small pockets - the view is great, too.
Access: from the Grotta del cane continue right for another 5 minutes.

6. Luna Park
Another 7 fingery routes from 4c - 7b. Slabs and corners.
Access: as for Mani di Fatima and continue past 'Parallele' ( 5 mins), alternatively continue from Olimpo for 5 minutes.

7. Parallele
See description

8. Mani di Fatima
See description

Notes

Highly technical climbing on small edges.




Sectors

Mani di Fatima
Overhanging tufas and good holds make this a stamina climber's delight. Recommended routes: Surimono 6b, Harakiri 7b+, Banzai 7a, Obliqua 7b+, La Guerra dei nervi 7c+, il Padrone Assoluto 8a/+.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Ushuaia 7a/b
2 This is not Holliwood 6b/c
3 Mano di Fatima 6a
4 Maktub 6c
5 Surimono 6b
6 La guerra dei nervi 7c+
7 Fadiga (progetto 8b?)
8 Sacro e profano (8b?)
9 Il padrone assoluto 8a/+
Chiodata da Andrea Varnerin 'Arci', 1990 circa, prima libera Mauro Bole 'Bubu', 1998, secondo giro.
10 Harakiri 7b+
11 L'obliqua 7b+ (lunga 8a)
12 Banzai 7a
13 Gocce di salvezza 6a+
14 Confucio 6c+
15 Il cipresso nel cortile 6c
16 Veleno nel cuore 7a+
17 Shobogenzoo 6b+
18 Sol levante 5c
Parallele
Beautiful crag. 17 well-equipped slab routes from 3c - 6c. Great for beginners. Access: follow the small road from the gravel opening (30 m in front of the fountain) into the woods and down past hairpin bends leftwards beneath the walls to the crag (10 mi
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 La fessura 5a+
2 La fonte della giovinezza 4c
3 La via accanto 4c
4 Orecchie d'asino 4c
5 Brodo way 6c
6 Il tagliaerbe 6b
7 Algatraz 6b
8 Il giro 5c
9 Equinozio 5c
10 Brez Imena 6b
11 Ezio e le storie tese 6b
12 Calimero 6b
13 Nave scuola 4b
14 Le parallele 5a
15 Campanula 4c
16 Go bisogno di te 3c
17 Corso 98 3c
Traversata Classica I
Beautiful crag. 17 well-equipped slab routes from 3c - 6c. Great for beginners. Access: follow the small road from the gravel opening (30 m in front of the fountain) into the woods and down past hairpin bends leftwards beneath the walls to the crag (10 mi
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Texi 12m 4c
2 Franchica 12m 5a
3 Spigolo giallo 12m 5c+
4 Mr.Grease 12m 6a
5 Carioca 12m 6a
6 Varianta 12m 6a+
7 Isidoro 12m 6a
8 Mago Merlino 12m 6b
9 Noarci 12m 6a
10 Bombastic 12m 5c
11 Jarg 12m 5c
12 Old Time 12m 5b
13 Stu Ledi 10m 5b
14 Napogames 10m 6a
15 Rock Labirinth 10m 6b+
16 Clorophille 10m 6b+
17 Cico 10m 4c
18 Re artu 12m 6a+
19 Mumble 12m 5c
Traversata Classica II
Beautiful crag. 17 well-equipped slab routes from 3c - 6c. Great for beginners. Access: follow the small road from the gravel opening (30 m in front of the fountain) into the woods and down past hairpin bends leftwards beneath the walls to the crag (10 mi
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
20 Q6 12m 6a
21 Q7 12m 5c
22 Viola mania 10m 5a
23 Irish coffe 10m 5c
24 Black out 10m 6b+
25 Bananarama 12m 6a
26 Gratta e vinci 12m 6a+
27 Cuba libre 10m 7b+
28 Via del teran 12m 6b
29 Stinger 12m 6b
Scudo
Beautiful crag. 17 well-equipped slab routes from 3c - 6c. Great for beginners. Access: follow the small road from the gravel opening (30 m in front of the fountain) into the woods and down past hairpin bends leftwards beneath the walls to the crag (10 mi
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Mr Crocodile 12m 7a+
2 Managua ext 17m 7b
2 Managua 15m 7a+
3 Ratataplan 17m 7b
4 Mud Club 18m 8a+
5 Telefono Azzurro 17m 7a+
6 Scudo 20m 7a+
7 Wild wind 20m 8a
8 Poker d’assi 18m 7c/c+
9 Orcobaleno 15m 8b
10 Romantische strasse 10m 8a
11 Scala Reale 10m 7a+





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4c - 8b
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SW
Rope
60m


Position



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