|Barbara Raudner from Austria climbs "Keitos Palast" at Austria's Höllental (Atlantis) and in doing so joins the fast-growing international list of female climbers capable of climbing 8c.
Barbara first started trying the route in May 2006 but serious attempts had to be postponed to this autumn as sweltering heat intermingled with extended periods of rain, rendering the routes unclimbable. Barbara sent the 30m line, first ascended by Arthur Kubista in 2002 and repeated by Bernhard Fiedler only, on 20 September in brilliant sunshine and a cool north wind - just perfect to finally reach what still remains an important goal in sports climbing.
We've published Barbara's report below aswell as a short resume of some of her hardest climbs to date. Hopefully we'll be hearing more of her in the future!
Barbara Raudner and "Keitos Palast"
"On 20 September my day had come. There was brilliant sunshine and a cool north wind. Under these conditions I set off into the “Höllental". I was strong mentally and really determined to reach my aim. Conditions were perfect, although I have to admit that I felt slightly tense. I climbed the boulder section rapidly, sped up with all my might in the crux and, fighting off the lactic acid, kept on sprinting upwards. I executed the moves perfectly (perfectly is a bit exaggerated I have to admit;-)), but anyway I managed to mobilise my final reserves in the upper part and to snatch and hold the final critical sloper. Hanging in the rope when it was all over I was absolutely happy, but at first I couldn't believe it. A great dream has come true: "Keitos Palace" is a super route and I've now climbed my first 8c."
"Steinfeder", 8b/8b+, Höllental (AUT)
"Lahko Noc", 8b, Misja Pec (SLO)
"Angel Heart", 8a+/8b, Adlitzgräben (AUT)
"1000 Liter Feuerwasser", 8a+/8b, Hohe Wand (AUT)
"Tscho Tschi", 8a+/8b, Hohe Wand (AUT)
"Keep the red flag flying", 8a+, Hohe Wand (AUT)
"Ain't nobody special", 8a+, Höllental (AUT)
"Bloc rockin` beats", 8a+, Adlitzgräben (AUT)
"Bon viatge", 8a+, El Bruixes (ESP)
"Fantastic voyage", 8a+, Osp (SLO)
"Sonce V Oceh", 8a+, Misja Pec (SLO)
"Inri", 7c bloc, Wachau (AUT)
"Bonobo", 7c/c+ trav, Susten (CH)
"Lost in translation", 7b/b+ bloc, Spitz (AUT)
"Bosna brutal", 7b bloc, Magic Wood (CH)
The female 8c club:
Josune Bereziartu (ESP) Honky Tonky 8c, Campezzo, Spain 1998
Liv Sansoz (FRA) Hasta la Vista 8c/c+, Mt. Charleston, USA, 2000
Marietta Uhden (GER) Sonne im Herzen 8c, Kochel, Germany, 2001
Aleksandra Taistra (POL) Power Play VI.7/8c, the Pràdnik Valley, Poland, 2004
Beth Rodden (USA) The Optimist 5.14b/8c (FA), Smith Rock, USA, 2004
Eva Lopez (ESP) Nuria 8c, Cuenca, Spain 2005
Martina Cufar (SLO) Vizija 8c, Osp, Slovenia, 2005
Maja Vidmar (SLO) Osapski pajek 8c, Osp, Slovenia 2006
Natalija Gros (SLO) Strelovod 8c, Osp, Slovenia 2006
Kinga Ociepka (POL) Geminis 8c, Rodellar, Spain 2006
Jenny Lavarda (ITA), Claudio Caffè 8c/+, Terra Promessa, Italy 2006