At 11.30 on 25/07/2005 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov reached the summit of Broad Peak (8.048m Himalaya, Karakorum) via a new route up the SW Face.
The two mountaineers from Kazakhstan climbed the route in pure alpine style over a six day period in critical weather conditions, with strong winds and a high risk of avalanches.
Denis and Serguey bivied two nights as they were unable to set up their tent on the narrow ledges. After a further bivvy they descended via the normal route, for a total of 7 days and 6 nights on the immense face.
This season the two are the only mountaineers to have reached the summit of the 12th highest mountain in the world. Denis Urubko is without a doubt one of the strongest mountaineers at present, and Broad Peak is his ninth 8000m summit (this is his second BP summit). while Serguey Samoilov touches the mythical height for the first time.
The ascent is significant and one of the most important during this difficult himalayan season, in particular for its pure alpine style. Urubko turns 32 in three days time.. what a great present for him and the team! Congratulations! Full report on: russianclimb.com
The two Kazak mountaineers formed part of a larger Italian expedition which had reached Broad Peak Middle 8015m on 21/07/2005. Thesze included Roberto Piantoni (expedition leader) Mario Merelli, Marco Astori, Domenico Belingheri , Giampaolo Corona and Franco Nicolini. Prohibitively dangerous conditions forced them to abandon their attempt for the main summit
Broad Peak 8047m
location: Himalaya, Karakorum - on the border between Pakistan and Cina
F.A.: the Austrians H. Buhl, K. Diemberger, M. Schmuck, F. Wintersteller on 7 June 1957
Photos: Broad Peak from Concordia, the liine of the new route up the middle of the face; below: Denis Urubko (ph Simone Moro).