|On 12 January the British climber Neil Gresham made the first ascent of 'The Tempest', M9 (Scottish 10) at Stob coire nan Lochan, near Glencoe, Scotland. |
The 30m route involves sustained, technical mixed climbing with marginal tool placements and, according to Gresham, a "spectacular finish up a thin ice smear". Pre-equipped and practised for 3 days prior to a clean ascent. 'The Tempest' is now the second hardest sport-style mixed route in Britain after Mark Garthwaite's 'Logical Progression', M10.
Gresham, who chose not to attend the IWC in Pitztal in favour of trying the route, is well-known in Britain as one of the most active all round climbers. His hard ascents sweep from sports routes such as Mecca 8b+ and La Rose et Le Vampire 8b, to traditional testpieces such as the Indian Face and Meshuga, both E9. Someone to look out for in Saas Fee and Chamonix in the next couple of weeks