Diretta Consiglio: sun, sky, rock and the Gran Sasso d'Italia. By Ivo Ferrari

Ivo Ferrari climbs 'La Diretta Consiglio' up the Gran Sasso. A day spent between the rocks and the sky, reliving the beauty of the climb.
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Ivo Ferrari and the Via Diretta Consigli, Vetta Occidentale, Gran Sasso
Ivo Ferrari
Fonte Vetica, the Campo Imperatore plateau, grilled meat, the horizon, Gran Sasso and its old hotel, steeped in history, a story that is both good and bad of an Italy rich... in history. For it was here, back in 1943 after the fall of fascism, that Benito Mussolini was imprisoned. Imprisoned and then freed with a surprise rescue mission carried out by German soldiers led by Captain Otto Skorzeny. "Duce, the Fuhrer has sent me to set you free!"; these are the words that Skorzeny exclaimed as he entered Mussolini's room. This room has now been transformed into a small museum, a place to "remember". I'd already visited it before, with Federica and the children, but today I'm also joined by Lorenzo, a strong young mountaineer from Castelli Romani I met last winter thanks to Massimo Marcheggiani.

Today we want to climb the East Face of the Vetta Occidentale, to find out more about this section of this wonderful massif. We set off early, the weather bodes well and we're motivated by that drive that, up in the mountains further north, is holding back many... Our aim is to climb something "classic", a logical line, not forced in any way, ideal to find out more about this peak and to have fun... the via Diretta Consiglio.

We set off at a leisurely pace, we're not in a rush, the peak is clearly visible, distant enough to be close.There are lot's of people about, all with different goals. The sun is already hot up in the sky ... beneath the face I stop for a few minutes to take in the spectacle. My heart fills with joy whenever I “descend” to Gran Sasso!

The rock lets itself be climbed, the holds are good, the footholds rough, pegs in just the right place and cracks perfectly suited for Friends. We're the only party on this sunny face today and with the usual “on belay, climb, off belay” we make our way upwards. The summit is the Cima del Gran Sasso, deserted in summer and bustling with activity in summer, so many people, so many colors, so many thoughts... we descend to the "Duca degli Abruzzi" hut where Federica and the children are waiting for me. Live music, beer, so many different accents... and what a unique day!

By Ivo Ferrari




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