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Rossano Libera
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Rossano Libera video portrait

04.04.2014 by Planetmountain

The video portrait of Italian alpinist Rossano Libera.

Rossano Libera, born in Sondrio, Italy, in 1969, has been climbing for more than 20 years and is a UIAGM mountain guide. His form of alpinism has been described as "mystical". What is certain is that his curriculum of first ascents and above all solo climbs, in summer as in winter, would be the source of envy for many a great alpinist. His preferred playground are the Central Alps, his backyard mountains. Of late though he has carried out some solos and ascents up great routes in the Mont Blanc massif (for example, the first one day ascent of the original line of Beyond the Good and The Evil (5+/VI/A2), Twight's masterpiece up Aig. des Pelerins). A not irrelevant detail is his reputation for establishing "dangerous" routes. And another strongpoint is his ability to remain on a face, alone, to climb projects (in winter, too) that many consider extremely difficult adventures, "impossible" even. For example his first solo winter ascents up Piz Badile: Ringo Star in 2004 required 5 days climbing, during which he established an important 7-pitch variant. In 2008 he reached the summit of Badile after 36 hours (bivy included) after having succeeded on the first winter solo of the legendary Cassin route up the NE Face. Recently Rossano Libera has become a specialist of ice and modern mixed, and routes climbed in this style include above all "Bocconi amari", the difficult route established together with Ezio Marlier on Monte Emilius. Others include the f.a. of "Mostro", 180m of pure ice graded WI6/6 and "La Matita" WI6/6+, both situated in Val Codera. In 2006 he was awarded the Grignetta d'oro (ex aequo with Rolando Larcher) and the "Premio De Simoni". The latest noteworthy climbs include the first winter ascent of the Cassin route on Piz d’Eghen, Grigne in February 2011, and the first solo (and second repeat) of Memento Mori on Pizzo Badile.

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