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Daniele Natali establishing the demanding third pitch
Photo by Codazzi & Natali
Stefano Codazzi on the demanding final pitch
Photo by Codazzi & Natali

Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali

05.09.2013 by Stefano Codazzi

On 10/08/2013 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Dall’alba al tramonto (6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II, 230m), a new climb up the SE Face of Presolana Centrale.

It seems strange to find new terrain on Presolana, a peak that many generations have already explored before us. But all you need to do is look at this mountain from a particular angle, tilt your head and squint your eyes and all of a sudden the rock reveals new possibilities, hitherto unseen that fuel strange vertical fantasies.

This short story stemmed from this, from an idea, from a vision that slowly but surely became concrete, after our habitual perspective was unexpectedly unshackled. "What d'you reckon Stefano, if we set off from that slab, perhaps we could..." "Yes, Daniele, and then we'll continue on left up that crack... then along the pillar and..." And so while we were repeating the Pegurri-Carrara route, our eyes drifted across, the perspective was just right and this is how the new route came into being.

A few days later we climbed one pitch after the next to forge Dall’alba al tramonto in a single day. From dawn to dusk is psychologically demanding, protected with just a few in-situ bolts, up a series of incredibly weathered and pocketed slabs and cracks that can be protected with an astute use of natural pro, if you know how to place them at just the right angle...

We repeated Dall’alba al tramonto on 31 August; the route is protected by 8mm stainless steel bolts and is equipped with abseil rings.

Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support, Karpos and Wild Climb.

TOPO: Dall’alba al tramonto, Presolana

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