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View on Nenek Simukut (Dragons Horns) and Mukut village below. The South tower offers routes up to 300m of height.
Photo by David Kaszlikowski
Arnaud Petit on pitch 4
Photo by David Kaszlikowski
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Damai Sentosa, new route on Dragon's Horns in Malaysia

19.06.2013 by Planetmountain

In April 2013, Stephanie Bodet, Yong Liu, Arnaud Petit, David Kaszlikowski and Tam Khairudin Haja made the first ascent of Damai Sentosa (280m, 6c+, 6b+ oblig) up the Dragon's Horns (Bukit Nenek Simukut) on Tioman Island, Malaysia.

The Dragon's Horns on Malaysia's Tioman Island have been enriched with a new route thanks to a strong international team comprised of Poland's David Kaszlikowski, France's Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit and China's Yong Liu who established Damai Sentosa up the SW Pillar of the South Tower.

The team first cut a trail through the dense jungle to the base of the face, and then chose a 280m line close to the route Batu Naga (Cedar Wright, Lucho Rivera, 2011). Climbing ground-up, the team explored featured slabs and vertical faces with difficulties up 6c+ (6b+ oblig) and also added an 8a variant pitch. Damai Sentosa, which translates as "In the name of peace", was established during a period of unstable weather: tropical storms forced wet retreats from the wall and the route was redpointed for the first time on 4 May by Kaszlikowski and Khairudin Haja. Although bolt protected, a selection of cams will nevetheless be found useful.

Kaszlikowski has already established two other routes on the Dragon's Horns, namely Polish Princess (2011) and Sam Sam (2010) highly recommends the area, stating "Tioman is becoming a regular climbing destination. It not only offers a great selection of multi-pitch routes (some very well prepared) on solid, generally clean granite, but in addition it is probably the only place on the planet where you can explore a beautiful coral reef and climb a 300m high granite wall on the same day. The jungle approach is tough sometimes, but it's worth it: a "lost world" awaits at the peak, with amazing endemic plants and exotic animals."

BUKIT NENEK SIMUKUT
South Tower
1. Beckwith - Traver - Steve Beckwith and Matt Traver in 2009,(400m, 5.10.A3)
2. Batu Naga - Cedar Wright, Lucho Rivera, 2011, 5.12R, 300m
3. Damai Sentosa - S. Bodet, Y. Liu, A. Petit, D. Kaszlikowski,T. Khairudin (280m, 6c+, 6b+ oblig, 8a variation), 2013
4. Waking Dream - Nick Tomlin and Scotty Nelson in 2000 (V 5.9 A2, 10 pitches). FFA: Dave Sharratt and Hank Jones, 7c+.
5. Muka - Martinek, Benes, Sobotka 2010, 7a+, 360m
6. Polish Princess - David Kaszlikowski, Eliza Kubarska. Direct line to the top, prepared (crosses Muka at pitch 4) 7b+, 270m, 2011
7. Sam Sam - Kaszlikowski, Kubarska (7b, 300m, 2010

North Tower
1. Tanoshi Buttress - C. Wright, L. Rivera (5.10R/X, 270m)

Note: access to most routes is via the trail cut in 2007 by Uncle Sam, the local jungle enthusiast and takes circa 1 - 1.30 hours. Sam runs a resort called Simukut Hill View (former Tanjung) in the village Mukut at the base of access trail.

The team wishes to thank: KAILAS, Tendon (Da Liu, David), and Petzl, La Sportiva (Stephanie, Arnaud).

TOPO: Damai Sentosa, Dragon's Horns, Malesia

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