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New route attempt by Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik.
Photo by Dodo Kopold

Out of Reality, Kopold and Sabovcik new route attempt on Great Trango Towe

14.09.2012 by Planetmountain

This August the Slovak climbers Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik forged a new line up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (6286m), Karakorum. Their "Out of Reality" ends on the shoulder circa 400m below the summit.

Dodo Kopold's love affair with the Trango valley continues and after his mammoth 2005 first ascent of Assalam Alaikum up the south face of Great Trango Tower together with Gabo Cmarik, this summer Kopold joined forces with Michal Sabovčík to attempt a new route up the NW Face.

Climbing alpine-style, the duo spent two days ascending slabs and a series of offwidths to reach the headwall proper. From here they continued up steep, technical terrain to reach a snow gully (when Kopold had almost been swept away in 2005) and at midday they found themselves at climbing what they described as the Illuminati section - overhanging mixed climbing with hanging ice - with difficulties up to M7 at circa 5200m.

The long day concluded with a poor bivy and little sleep, and the next long day was marked by snowfall and difficult climbing up iced chimneys to reach the top of the Prominent pillar at approximately 6000m. As night set in they prepared to rehydrate but dropped their stove. The choice - on to the summit separated by appoximately 400m of easier ground, or descent - proved easy and Kopold concluded "After five days in NW face we retreat to the base camp without the main summit but with a beautiful and hardcore route. I choose life ;-)"

Great Trango NW Face: Out of Reality 1500m WI6 M7 A3 VIII (1-5.8.2012 alpine style)

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