Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowNew free climbs on Baffin Island

Baffin Island 2012: Hansjörg Auer climbing The Door, Belly Tower East Face, Perfection Valley
Photo by Ricky Felderer
Baffin Island 2012: Eneko Pou, Iker Pou & Hansjörg Auer
Photo by Matteo Mocellin
INFO / links & info:

New free climbs on Baffin Island

27.08.2012 by Planetmountain

In June and July 2012 a strong team of international climbers comprised of Hansjörg Auer, Riky Felderer, Ben Lepesant, Matteo Mocellin, William Peterson, Eneko Pou and Iker Pou forged 4 new free climbs on Baffin Island’s East Coast, including The Door 8b.

Following in the footsteps of Swiss big wall legend Xaver Bongard who in summer 1987 led the first climbing expedition to Baffin Island's East Coast, a strong team of international climbers comprised of Hansjörg Auer, Riky Felderer, Ben Lepesant, Matteo Mocellin, William Peterson., Eneko Pou and Iker Pou spent almost all of June and July in the Arctic establishing four new free climbs.

After reaching Baffin Island's Perfection Valley the expedition established Base Camp beneath what they dubbed Belly Tower and then, having endured numerous days of poor weather, set about establishing what would become The Door, a circa 630m high, 16 pitch route with difficulties up to 8b. Dodging raindrops the team split into various groups to ascend the line which included Eneko and Lepesant forging up ahead and Auer and Pou freeing the hardest pitches. 27 bolts were placed, 5 pitons and 3 beaks were left in-situ and while the summit was reached on July 1, the crux seventh pitch was freed a week later by both Auer and Iker Pou when the better weather resumed.

The team rested briefly and then set its sights on the nearby virgin peak they called White wall where on July 13 the climbers made the first ascents of Hotel Monica (6b+, 450m) and Hotel Gina (6b+, 450m). Four days later the Pou brothers and Auer made the first ascent of Levi is coming (6b, 420m) up Mount Cook which they describe as "one of the most beautiful routes we've ever opened".

The expedition then returned to civilisation and Iker Pou summed up the trip as follows "We endured many days with bad weather in this expedition and everybody really needed to rest. We spent the last ten days eating soup and rationing our food as we didn't know what we had left. Now we know we have survived one of the wildest places on Earth. It was an incredible experience."


The Door

Belly Tower East Face/Perfection Valley/Baffin Island
First ascent: Eneko Pou, Iker Pou, Ben Lepesant, Hansjörg Auer, June 20 - July 7
Length: ca. 630m of climbing (16 pitches) + 200m of easy scrambling
Grade: 8b
In-situ gear: 27 bolts, 5 pitons, 3 beaks

Hotel Gina
White Wall East Face/Perfection Valley/Baffin Island
First ascent: Matteo Mocellin, Ben Lepesant, Hansjörg Auer, July 13
Height: ca. 450m
Length: ca. 320m of climbing (6 pitches) + ca. 250m of easy scrambling
Grade: 6b+

Hotel Monica
White Wall East Face/Perfection Valley/Baffin Island
First ascent: Riky Felderer, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou, July 13
Height: ca. 450m
Length: ca. 320m of climbing (6 pitches) + ca. 250m of easy scrambling
Grade: 6b+

Levi is coming
Mount Cook Northeast Pillar/Perfection Valley/Baffin Island
First ascent:Eneko Pou, Iker Pou, Hansjörg Auer, July 17
Height: ca. 360m
Length: ca. 420m (11 pitches)
Grade: 6b

Share this page

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Rataplan
    Ripetizione del 20.09.2014L1 6c bella fessura non banale pe ...
    2014-09-23 / oscar meloni
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello
  • Chimera Verticale
    Ripetuta il 29 agosto 2014 con Martin Dejori. Bellissima via ...
    2014-08-30 / Alex Walpoth
  • Costantini - Apollonio
    Caro Checco, gli spit sono rispuntati, qualcuno in sosta, qu ...
    2014-08-29 / Angelo Bon