Cara, new route in Val Gadena by Roverato and Carraro
Between March and June 2012 Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro established Cara (260m, 7c max, 7a+ obl), a new route up the East Face of Val Gadena (Valsugana, Italy).
After La gioia nel silenzio established with Giulio Abrate in 2010, Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro have returned to the same Val Gadena rock face in Valsugana, Italy. The massive east face is solitary and imposing, completely off the beaten track yet evidently it has drawn them in. And so, just to the left of the first route, Roverato has now forged Cara, a 260m line with maximum difficulties up to 7c and 7a+ obligatory. Cara means dear in Italian and, apart from the untouched and isolated environment, this route offers climbing which is "varied and includes small crimps and pockets, technical slabs and powerful overhangs. The rock quality is very good except for a few meters at the start of the first pitch."
CARA by Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro
CARA is nothing other than an acronym for Carraro Angela and Roverato Alessio... we wanted to be linked some how to the route, too. We've become fond of the Gadena Valley and the steep forest next to the rock face is an ideal place to seek refuge and solace after a week stuck in the office: a couple of deep breaths suffice to recharge your batteries. While establishing "La gioia nel silenzio" we noted the pocketed slab to the left, breached at times by yellowish overhangs, so we had no choice other than to check it out. We didn't expect such good rock up most of the route and we only had to clean a few sections.
At half-height, lying peacefully on the ledge, were two remains of a bomb which had lain there since this had been a borderline during the First World War... We looked at them amazed and placed them on a sort of natural altar. We'd experienced something similar on the SE Face of Sass Rosso, but at the time the remains were wedged into a crack.
In spring some red lily and purple iris bloomed on these grassy ledges, giving a touch of extra colour to the yellowish grey rock. During our approaches this year we often encountered a snake, basking quietly and happily in the sun ... we almost got a heart attack every time we saw it because these snakes decide to move away at the very last moment. It is their kingdom we're invading, after all!
The problem was that after these encounters we were so afraid of other snakes that just the sight of a tiny lizard fleeing into the bushes would make our heart skip a beat. Fortunately for us this area isn't home to snakes only, which we call carbonassi, but also some nice-looking large toads enjoying the forest shade.
The route starts 50m to the left of "La gioia nel silenzio", and you'll need some patience to find the base as the approach isn't easy. But the satisfaction you'll get during the climb will certainly be ample compensation for all your efforts.
Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro
Alessio Roverato thanks: SCARPA, Alpstation Bassano and Montura
TOPO: Cara - Val Gadena