Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowDai Koyamada and The Story of Two Worlds at Cresciano

Dai Koyamada freeing The Story of Two Worlds Low Start 8C+ at Cresciano, Switzerland.
Photo by

Dai Koyamada and The Story of Two Worlds at Cresciano

25.06.2012 by Planetmountain

Video of Dai Koyamada who on 22/03/2012 made the first ascent of the boulder problem The Story of Two Worlds Low Start at Cresciano, Switzerland.

In early 2010 Dai Koyamada repeated The Story of Two Worlds, the famous boulder problem established by Dave Graham at Cresciano in 2005, but during that rainy May two years back the talented Japanese climber didn't realise that he had set off from a different starting hold, one move higher, than the American first ascentionist.

A sort of obsession resulted from this misunderstanding: Koyamada immediately decided to repeat the line once more, but this time from an even lower hold, from a move which seemed more natural but which added unheard of difficulties to this already immensely difficult problem. A start therefore at the very limit of what is possible, and what was hitherto imaginable! Koyamada required two years to succeed and, apart from the hallmark determination and power of this true warrior, what was also needed was a bout of astounding creativity to solve this overhanging puzzle.

The result, which dates back to 22 March this year, is the Low Start to The Story of Two Worlds, an 8C+ which is certainly one of the hardest problems on the planet. Luckily for us all, the Koyamada's story about this climb has been documented in this fabulous film, a real delight for all those who love the finer subtleties of this game of bouldering.



Share this page

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Rataplan
    Ripetizione del 20.09.2014L1 6c bella fessura non banale pe ...
    2014-09-23 / oscar meloni
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello
  • Chimera Verticale
    Ripetuta il 29 agosto 2014 con Martin Dejori. Bellissima via ...
    2014-08-30 / Alex Walpoth
  • Costantini - Apollonio
    Caro Checco, gli spit sono rispuntati, qualcuno in sosta, qu ...
    2014-08-29 / Angelo Bon