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The Rise of the Machines (VI 5.11 A2 900m) on the SW Face of Aguja Poincenot, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia
Photo by Joel Kauffman

The Rise of the Machines, new route on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia

27.12.2011 by Planetmountain

Jens Holsten, Joel Kauffman, Mikey Schafer and established Rise of the Machines (VI 5.11 A2+ 900m, 750 new) up the Southwest Face, Aguja Poincenot, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.

"One of the biggest routes of our lives." This, in short, is how American alpinist Joel Kauffman has described the three-day, alpine style ascent of the new route The Rise of the Machines up the SW Face of Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia together with Jens Holsten and Mikey Schafer.

After having previously cached gear at the Niponino bivy, the three American alpinists first climbed relatively easy terrain up to 6b for seven pitches to reach the steep headwall. This was breached the next day via poor rock and A2+ aid climbing before continuing, after another bivy, more easily to the summit.

As they abseiled off they witnessed massive rockfall on El Mocho - "an example of how good weather can actually be too good..." - and difficulties were further compounded when they ran out of gas and above all when Kauffman lost his approach boot on the way up, rendering the final descent across the glacier arduous to say the least.

For full reports and photos check out joelandneilsclimbingblog, mikeylikesrocks.com and jensholsten.blogspot.com

- Washington Route, new climb on Fitz Roy, Patagonia by Schaefer and Rutherford
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