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Neil Dyer on The Brute 8b, The Diamond, Little Orme, North Wales
Photo by Simon Panton
Neil Dyer on the upper headwall of Megalopa 8c+, Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales
Photo by Simon Panton

Neil Dyer adds Megalopa 8c+ to Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales

25.08.2011 by Planetmountain

British climber Neil Dyer has added two important new sport climbs to North Wales limestone, namely Megalopa F8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn on the Great Orme and The Brute 8b at the Diamond on the nearby Little Orme.

Megalopa is the direct finish to Lower Pen Trwyn's Walking Mussel, an 8b+ in its own right first, and although bolted in the early '90's by Ben Pritchard this crimpy headwall had remained off people's ticklist until this summer when it was rebolted by Dyer and Pete Robins. The two took turns attempting the line and it was Dyer who came up trumps first in ideal conditions at the start of August.

This notable ascent is the hardest new addition to the Great Orme since 1996 when Neil Carson freed The Big Bang 9a, the route which made headline news recently when James MacHaffie's carried out the historic second ascent, featured in the video below.

Making the most of his superb stamina, Neil Dyer then turned his attention to a an old Steve Mayers project on the nearby crag The Diamond on Little Orme. Dyer freed the line last week at hard 8b and according to local climber Simon Panton, The Brute "is a truly outstanding route, certainly one of the best of its standard in the UK.

For those unfamiliar with The Diamond, this crag is a little jewel in the North Wales limestone and access is restricted by bird bans. It is reached on foot at low tide or by abseil and is consequently less popular than it otherwise would be.

James MacHaffie, Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales

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