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The impressive Piz Ciavaces, Sella group, Dolomites
The impressive Piz Ciavaces, Sella group, Dolomites
Photo by Planetmountain.com
Renato Bernard climbing Baci da Honolulu + Al.Fa, Dolomites
Renato Bernard climbing Baci da Honolulu + Al.Fa, Dolomites
Photo by Alberto De Giuli
PORTFOLIO / gallery Portfolio: Rock climbing on Piz Ciavazes and the Sella, Dolomites
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Rock climbing on Piz Ciavazes and the Sella, Dolomites

19.08.2011 by Planetmountain

Five interesting rock climbs on Piz Ciavaces and the First Sella Tower, Dolomites, introduced by Mountain Guide Alberto De Giuli.

Route
Grade
Length
Beauty
Non c'è due senza te
7b
350m
Interesting route put up by local mountain guide Renato Bernard and Petra Bernard in 2005. despite being entirely equipped with bolts, the route requires alpine experience due to the quality of the rock and the run-out gear.
Roberta 83
7a
250m
Exciting climb up excellent rock. The second half is vertical and exposed and ascends yellowish-black pocketed rock and the final two pitches, in particular, are extremely beautiful. After a second difficult pitch, the difficulties tend to be in the 6b region. You can abseil quickly off the route (two 60m ropes) following the abseils marked on the topo.
Giovanni Paolo II
6c
300m
Great route up good rock, established by B. De Franceschi and F. Vanzetta in 1978 (pegs and pressure bolts). It was rebolted recently in a combined effort first by R. Bernard and G. Bonanno, then by Luigi Trippa & Co. (middle pitches) and finished off by Bernard with E. and P. Bernard and C. Peveri.

Baci da Honolulu + Al.Fa
7b+
250m
Stupendous combination of two existing routes which had fallen into disuse, probably due to the state of the original pro. The first half climbs technical slabs, the second is more athletic up excellent rock. Re-equipped in summer 2009, the route is well protected but the bolts are at times run-out.
Icterus
6c+
200m
Beautiful route which offers technical and pumpy climbing up good to excellent rock. In 2009 the two mountain guides Alberto De Giuli and Renato Bernard re-equipped the routes with bolts, at times run-out, while the third pitch now ascends direct instead of traversing off. The first pitch had originally been bolted after a first, ground-up attempt by Haspeter Eisendle with trad pro.

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