Marmolada Dolomites new climb

At the end of July Geremia Vergoni and Tiziano Buccella made the first free ascent of Opus Pocus, a new route which the duo had first ascended in 2008 on the remote Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada, Italy. The route is 200m long and with difficulties up to 8a max (7b/7b+ obl) breaches the Pilastro del Seràuta, to the left of the 1942 Pisoni - Castiglioni del 1942. The two describe the line as follows: "Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another. The first pitch for example is a classic mountain pitch on good rock which needs trad pro, worlds apart from the third pitch which is bolted otherwise unprotectable, with different difficulties altogether."

Vergoni and Buccella had eyed the line in summer 2007 but the first free ascent was carried out this July by Geremia Vergoni who led all the pitches. Vergoni has more than 10 years experience at forging new lines and both are excellent climbers, with 8b redpoints and 7c on-sights to their name, as well as numerous Marmolada classics under their belt.


Opus Pocus
Piz Seràuta, Marmolada, Dolomiti
First ascent: Tiziano Buccella, Geremia Vergoni, 07/2007. First free ascent: 23/07/2009
Grade: 8a max
Obligatory grade: 7b/7b+
Orientation: South
Length: 200m