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arrowRiegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco

The Mandrea di Laghel wall at Arco, Italy.
Photo by Duck Young Im
Florian Riegler on the 3rd pitch of Pandora, Arco
Photo by Duck Young Im
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Riegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco

31.12.2008 by Planetmountain

In September 2008 Martin and Florian Riegler made the first ascent of "Pandora" (8 pitches, max 8b) on the Mandrea wall at Arco, Italy. In October the two South Tyroleans redpointed all pitches individually, but the route still awaits its first free ascent.

The Riegler brothers joined forces once again this autumn to carry out the first ascent of a new multi-pitch on the Madrea di Laghel wall high above Arco. The eight pitch route is called Pandora and was ascended from the ground up with the use of bolts and takes a line to the left of the Gabrieli pillar, following a series of slabs a small roofs on excellent rock. Florian describes their effort as follows: "We started the route during the Rock Master in September. After three days of hard work we managed to reach the highest point, but it was too hot to be freed. We nevertheless managed to free all the pitches except for the crux.

The difficulties weigh in between 6c and 7c/+ while the crux pitch, the one that climbs through the roof, starts off easy but then has a difficult boulder section. We returned in October to free this and reckon it's roughly 8b.

The route still awaits its first free ascent. Perhaps some curious climbers might want to go and try the line... and who knows, perhaps they'll even discover the secret to Pandora's box."

>> download Pandora route topo

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