Roberto delle Fratte frees Shangai 8c
On 13/06/2008 Roberto delle Fratte freed Shangai 8c, an old project at Pietrasecca (Italy) which waited for 20 years prior to the first free ascent.
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Roberto delle Fratte first free ascent of Shangai 8c, Pietrasecca.
Carlos de la Fuente
The route was back in vogue recently and even one of Italy’s top climbers Alessandro "Jolly" Lamberti dabbled with the project, but he found the crux finish simply too difficult.
Lamberti sent us the following report “finally on Friday 13 June Roberto delle Frate, who currently is on splendid form, managed to send this 20 year project. The route starts up "Lola Falena", a difficult and historic 7b, then continues through a technical section up small holds to a series of undercuts and slopers which require great stamina. But the hardest section comes right at the end: you have to stick a slopy two-finger pocket and then dyno up a series of slopers to the top. Roberto reckons the route might be 8c.”
Roberto delle Fratte also recently carried out the first ascent of "Platoon" 8b/8b+ at Subiaco, repeated quickly by Jolly Lamberti.
Lamberti sent us the following report “finally on Friday 13 June Roberto delle Frate, who currently is on splendid form, managed to send this 20 year project. The route starts up "Lola Falena", a difficult and historic 7b, then continues through a technical section up small holds to a series of undercuts and slopers which require great stamina. But the hardest section comes right at the end: you have to stick a slopy two-finger pocket and then dyno up a series of slopers to the top. Roberto reckons the route might be 8c.”
Roberto delle Fratte also recently carried out the first ascent of "Platoon" 8b/8b+ at Subiaco, repeated quickly by Jolly Lamberti.
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