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Il Domatore

First ascent: Elio Bonfanti, Riccardo Olliveri 24/12/2009
By: Elio Bonfanti
Area: Western Alps, Group: Valle di Gressoney, Peak: Monte Rosa, Height: 1610m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Il Domatore formed in winter 2009/10 thanks to the significant amount of rain which did not fall in previous seasons. The difficulty refers to the first ascent and may change considerably with more or less ice.

GETTING THERE

Take the Turin - Aosta motorway, exit at Pont Saint Martin and continue north along the SR44 into Valle di Gressoney. The crag is located on the right on the plateau before reaching Gressoney la Trinitè. Park the car close to the Senden dam.

ACCESS

From the car park cross fields to reach the base of the climb.

ROUTE

Climb the 85°/90° base wall direct which leads past two bulges to a small ledge. From here ascend diagonally left to a second ledge beneath a rocky overhang, belay here (30m). Ascend right to reach a narrow chimney bordered by suspended drips. If possible use the pegs placed for the dry tooling pitch Amico Gil. Climb directly past the pumpy overhang and exit left on thin 95° ice. Further thin and steep 90° ice leads to a comfortable bolt belay (25m). From this belay follow the obvious ramp left past some difficult sections to the top of the crag (bolt belay, 30m).

DESCENT

One overhanging 60m abseil (watch out for suspended ice curtains).

GEAR

Full ice climbing rack

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BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

I/WI6/R/X

FACE

North

LENGTH

85m

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