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Goulotte Perroux Profit

First ascent: Godefroy Perroux, Cristophe Profit
By: Elio Bonfanti
Area: Western Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Aiguille du Midi, Height: 3600m, Country: France, Region: Haute-Savoie

Nice climb at altitude. The fast approach and easy return render this a classic outing in the Mont Blanc range.


GETTING THERE

From Chamonix take the cable car up to Aiguille du Midi.

ACCESS

From the cable car cross the passerelle above the Cunningham Couloir (also called Passerelle) and locate the first abseil point on the other side which leads almost all the way down into the gully. Another 4 abseils lead to the start of the obvious rightwards rising ramp which leads to the start of the route.

ROUTE

P1: Easy snow ramp with a couple of narrow sections up thin ice, 60° - 70°, 80m circa. To climb this in a single pitch to the small saddle we recommend you short rope for circa 10m.
P2 Traverse right to reach an 75° ice step then continue up the slope via some easy mixed climbing to reach the belay (50m).
P3 From the belay climb the drip which leads to the characteristic wedged stone, 70°. Enter the chimney which steepens as you gain height, then move right on rock (M5) to reach a slopey cornice (60m).
P4 Return left into the drip and follow this to its end 70°/ 75° (60m).

DESCENT

From the top of the route traverse east along the Cosmiques crest, climbing as best possible past the various gendarmes to reach the cable car and panorama terrace in circa 20-30 minutes. Alternatively, head west along the crest to reach the Cosmiques hut.

GEAR

Some ice screws including some short ones. Conditions depending a selection of camming devices may be found useful. 0,5 - 0,75 - 1 Camalot recommended.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Neige Glace et Mixte Tome 2

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DIFFICULTY

III/4 M5

FACE

NW

LENGTH

250m

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