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Mello's Moon

First ascent: Fabio Salini, Emanuel Panizza 16/01/2009
By: Fabio Salini
Area: Bernina Alps, Group: Masino - Bregaglia, Height: 1300m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Fun icefall which rarely comes into condition, marked by a thin drip which descends down the dark compact granite.

GETTING THERE

Milan - Lecco - SS36 - Valtellina - Morbegno - Ardenno Masino – San Martino – Val di Mello (120 km from Milano).

ACCESS

Walk up Val di Mello to the huts at Cascina Piana. Cross the valley towards the icefall and walk up through the woods and the alluvial gully (45 minutes). Reaching the icefall can be tricky if snow covers the smoothe granite slabs (1 hours 15 minutes from the car park).

DESCENT

Abalakov aseil, 1 bolt with ring.

GEAR

Normal ice climbing gear. Short and mid length ice screws, 6 quickdraws.

NOTES

Take extreme care when judging when to climb this icefall due to the thin ice. Do not improvise!

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