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Cassiopeo

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Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Sasso Pordoi, Height: 2450m, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

Stupendous icefall in beautiful, completely sunny surroundings.

GETTING THERE

Take the road towards Passo Sella and reach Albergo Pian Schiaveneis.

ACCESS

Park the car a few hundred meters after Albergo Pian Schiaveneis. Follow path No. 647 which makes its way up Val Lasties, passing beneath the immense NW Face of Pordoi. Immediately after this the valley evens out, then steepens at the end and leads to the obvious drip on the left, shortly after Goulottina. Alternatively, if there is plenty of snow take the Pordoi cable car and ski down to the icefall. On foot with little, hard snow cover reckon with 1.45 hours, otherwise 45 minutes with skis.

ROUTE

P1: Climb the drip for circa 24m, 90° ice. Belay on the right on rock.
P2: Climb the nice wall with some easier-angled sections (possible bolt-belay with slings on the left after 35m.) Continue upwards past a short narrow section, then belay on the right on 2 pegs with in-situ slings and maillon rapide for the abseil.
P3: Unclimbable (as of 28/12/2007). Rock belay.

DESCENT

Two abseils down the icefall.

GEAR

Full ice climbing rack

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