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Hard ice in the rock

By: Alpine Ice Tour
Area: Western Alps, Group: Cogne-Valeille, Peak: Gran Paradiso, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Superb route in a grandiose ambience. An extremely satisfying climb. In particularly good seasons the first two pitches form a spectacular hanging drip (70m III 5+). This has happened twice in the last 15 years.

GETTING THERE

From Cogne drive to Lillaz.

ACCESS

From the car park at Lillaz walk along the path towards Valeille. At the first bridge scramble left up the slopes. Reach a gully by keeping to the left of the first outcrop and then ascend a ramp diagonally right to reach the base of the first pitch of Pattinaggio artistico. Cross this gulley and sramble up a corner and ramp with some large boulders (V grade). A 25m abseil leads down into the gully.

DESCENT

Abalakov thread abseils or traverse off left, descending slightly to reach the gully which leads back down to the valley floor (check out the photo topo).

GEAR

Normal ice climbing gear

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III/4

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