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Vertigine di Porcellana

By: Alpine Ice Tour
Area: Western Alps, Group: Cogne-Valeille, Peak: Gran Paradiso, Height: 1800m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Vertigine di Porcellana is a great classic, much repeated as it is almost always in condition.The icefall receives the sun for circa 1.30 hours and is recommended when there is little snow or the snow pack has settled since, like all the others in the entire area, it is fairly dangerous! Despite its grade, the central pitch is fairly demanding with a section of 90° ice. The first 30m pitch s circa 60/65° and ends with a bolt belay on the left. Pitch 2 is 40m long and climbs 80/90° ice and finishes with a belay beneath a rocky spur. Pitch 3 is 20m long and climbs 70/80° ice to a bolt belay on the right.

GETTING THERE

From Cogne drive to Lillaz.

ACCESS

From the car park at Lillaz walk along the cross country piste on the hydrographic left of Valeille and then continue along the path. Walk past the enormous boulder and past four icefalls to reach a gully and the icefall. Reach the base of the icefall as best possible (1 hour 10 minutes).

DESCENT

Abseil descent.

GEAR

Normal ice climbing gear.

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