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Ci Cozz

First ascent: M.Galli & M.Gianoli 1993
By: Mario Sertori
Area: Central Alps, Group: Livigno Alps, Height: 2000 m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

The icefall is comprised of two vertical sections that lead up a sunny rocky wall. A belay is equipped with bolts before the top of the first vertical section, on the right. The second pitch is more continuous with circa 15/18 m of 90° ice, a small ledge, and a further 10 vertical meters.

GETTING THERE

From Milan drive to Lecco and then Colico along the SS 36, then continue along the SS 38 to Bormio. From here take the SS 301 towards Livigno and the Foscagno Pass 2291 m.The Forcola pass which connects Valle di Livigno with Valle di Poschiavo is open from May to November only.

ACCESS

From Livigno drive to the border at Ponte del Gallo; park after the third tunnel, close to a gravel quarry. Climb above the tunnel and continue west for 100m. The icefall now springs into view in the center of the valley. Climb up the steep gully to the base. If an avalanche has already swept the area ascend on foot, otherwise use skis or snowshoes and... take extreme care! (0,45/1 hour).

DESCENT

Continue up briefly to reach a shoulder, then descend a steep slope on the hydrographical left to quickly reach the base once more.

NOTES

Map route 4

Beware: in January the Lammergeier that fly freely through the no-tax area are highly busy reproducing This isn't always as delightful as some might think, and after the first tender loving phase the eggs have to be deposited and kept warm, on a bed of twigs and feathers, while temperatures drop well below zero. These bird of prey tend not to mix in with human affairs, but a climber may well frighten off its prey or disturb the birds while they are guarding their offspring, rendering them helpless and hungry. For this reason the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio has decided to forbid access to this climb in January. Alceste, the bird of prey that lives here, highly recommends you stay clear of their home during the reproduction period, and I definitely agree with him. There are plenty of other icefalls to choose from. Furthermore, the park rangers keep a watchful eye for any suspicious behaviour and the fines are high. For detailed information concact the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio or the Comando del Corpo Forestale dello Stato di Livigno tel. 0342 - 997128.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Guidabook: Cascate. Alpi Centrali, Lombardia e Svizzera by Mario Sertori.
Map: Switzerland 1:25000 f.1258 La Stretta and f.1238 Piz Quattervals; Kompass 1:50.000 sheet n. 96 Bormio Livigno

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