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Stralasegne

First ascent: Renzo Corona, Flavio Piccinini 20-21/12/2015
By: Renzo Corona
Area: Dolomites, Group: Pale di San Martino, Peak: Pala di San Martino, Height: 2982m, Country: Italy

A severe alpine climb up the immense North Face of the Pala di San Martino. The route starts to the right of Via Solleder and follows the obvious vertical black streak. The rock is good apart from one section on pitch 2. Apart from two pitches, all the climbing needs protecting with trad gear. Much depends on the prevailing ice conditions; at times there is no ice, just snow. A reccie prior repeating this route is highly recommended. The abseil descent is fast and safe given the steepness of the face.

GETTING THERE

From San Martino di Castrozza - Passo Rolle reach Rifugio Giovanni Pedrotti alla Rosetta either by cable car or on foot.

ACCESS

From Rifugio Giovanni Pedrotti alla Rosetta ascend to the Cima delle Scarpe col and descend to the small Pala di San Martino glacier (1 hr 20 minutes circa, depending on snow cover). The route starts to the right of Via Solleder, below the black water streak that marks the line of ascent. If there is decent snow cover it is possible to reach the start with skis from the Pala gully.

DESCENT

Nine abseils down the route lead back down to the base of the climb.

GEAR

Complete winter rack. Bolts protect some belays as well as the second and sixth pitch. Take threads, Friends to BD #4, some ice screws.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

up to M5 (one section M6+)

FACE

North

LENGTH

500m

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